Weekend Whipper: “Sundevil Chimney” (5.13), the Titan, Fisher Towers, Utah

You can literally see the rock (honestly, more like hard mud) showering down as holds break away with each fall!

By Rock and Ice | November 30th, 2018

On Monday, November 19, Casey Elliot and Cassady Bindrup made the second free ascent of Sundevil Chimney, a seven-pitch 5.13 on the Titan in the Fisher Towers. 

The Fisher Towers are a classic aid-climbing area, known for some of the most crumbly rock that climbers are ever liable to encounter. Free climbing there is something most wouldn’t dream of: between holds breaking left and right, disintegrating cracks that protection may or may not hold in, and precious little modern fixed gear between the infrequent spots for good protection, it’s not for the faint of heart.

Stevie Haston made the first free ascent of Sundevil Chimney in May 2002. An update from the Mountain Project page for the Titan after he freed it summed up how wild of an achievement it is: “Stevie Haston has apparently freed the Sundevil Chimney at 5.13. This is pretty mind blowing – if the Titan can be freed probably any tower can.”

Elliot told Rock and Ice via email about the whipper compilation he sent in: “We were ground-up projecting pitch 2 which is a 5.12+ crack. … Cass is working the crux – popping gear, ripping holds off and taking whips! I tried to give him soft catches but the hanging belay made it pretty impossible. No Cassadys were harmed in the making of this videos.”

Elliot is currently working on a write-up of his and Cassaday’s ascent, so keep an eye out for it! Great work guys, impressive stuff!

Happy Friday and climb safe this weekend!


 

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