Alexander Megos Sends Frankenjura’s Hardest

German powerhouse Alexander Megos has repeated Corona (5.15a), which is considered to be the hardest sport climb in Germany's Frankenjura.

By Rock and Ice | May 13th, 2013

Alex Megos sending <em>The Tube</em> (5.14b) in the Red River Gorge. Photo by Peter Wurth. ” />German powerhouse Alexander Megos has repeated <em>Corona</em> (5.15a), which is considered to be the hardest sport climb in Germany’s Frankenjura. The route was first climbed by Markus Bock in 2006 and was unrepeated until Adam Ondra snatched the second ascent in 2009. Megos reportedly needed three days and 10 tries–which he spread out over six months–to send the route. It is also worth noting that Megos actually sent <em>Corona </em>twice, climbing it a second time while a photographer snapped photos.</p>
<p>This is the 19-year-old’s second 5.15a in less than a month, having recently made the<a href= first ascent of Classifiedalso located in the Frankenjura. The progression of Alex Megos has shocked the climbing world lately. In late March, he accomplished the world’s first confirmed 5.14d onsight–climbing Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain on his first try. Just a few days later, Megos climbed the nearby La Rambla (5.15a) on his second try. Megos started climbing at the age of six and then began a serious training program at age 13, which is guided by his coach Patrick Matros. In a recent article written by Matros, he explained that after Megos finished high school, they suggested that he should take a year off for “traveling and climbing around the world …” but “Not with us, with some friends!” While visiting the U.S. for four months during his “year off”, Megos managed to send over 100 routes graded 5.13b or harder, including an impressive flash of Pure Imagination (5.14c) in the Red River Gorge.

Check out this video of Megos’ training program.

Schweiß ist Schwäche die den Körper verläßt from cafekraft on Vimeo.


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