12-Year-Olds Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi Send V13 in Magic WoodMirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi have switched from the pocketed limestone sport-routes of Ceuse, France, to the cool temps and granite boulders of Magic Wood, Switzerland, and have quickly climbed V13.
Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi have switched from the pocketed limestone sport-routes of Ceuse, France, to the cool temps and granite boulders of Magic Wood, Switzerland. Wasting little time, the two 12-year-old climbers quickly dispatched One Summer in Paradise (V13). This was Caballero’s first V13 and Shiraishi’s second. Prior to climbing One Summer in Paradise, both had managed to send the line’s shorter variation Pura Vida (V12), with Shiraishi climbing the problem in an impressive one day effort. 8a.nu points out that Shiraishi is currently the only woman to have climbed both V13 and 5.14c, and that she has now climbed both grades twice.
Sean and Brooke Raboutou (15 and 12 years old respectively) have also joined in on the Magic Wood sending spree. Brooke quickly put down From Darkness to Sunshine and Snee Sturm, both graded V11, and also powered through Pura Vida (V12). Sean has managed a one day ascent of Right hand of Darkness (V11), as well as sending both The Never Ending Story Part 1 and Part 2, which are given V11 and V12.
Illya Bakhmet-Smolensky became the youngest person to climb 5.14d when he sent Chromosome X a couple years ago. Who is this young Ukrainian phenom?read more
Ascent Article "Leper Chai," by Jeff Long, Nominated for Best Mountaineering Article, Banff Mountain Book Competition
In “Leper Chai,” which ran in Ascent 2020, Jeff Long tells the story about a long-ago expedition on Makalu that led to a stint in a Nepali jail.read more
A Q&A with Todd Swain, author of the recently released An Ice Climber’s Guide to Southern New England and Eastern New York.read more