• Metolius Ultralight Asymmetric Curve Nuts

    MSRP: $149.50 for full set (#1-10); $14.95 for individual sizes   BEST FOR: Everything trad or aid   My rack of passive pro is a bit frankenstein-ish: cobbled together from orphaned chocks at the base … Continue reading "Metolius Ultralight Asymmetric Curve Nuts"
  • Wild Country Friends

    Of all the cams tested, the Wild Country Friends have undergone the most significant changes from previous generations, the obvious being the conversion to two axles and an updated color scheme that matches those of … Continue reading "Wild Country Friends"
  • Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights

    No more dieting to reach sending weight—we can just lighten our racks. The geometry of the Black Diamond’s Ultralights is almost exactly the same as that of the much-loved C4s in terms of stem rigidity, … Continue reading "Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights"
  • DMM Dragons

    Using the smooth walls of the local Welsh slate quarries as a testing ground, DMM has produced confidence-inspiring cams that, they say, are better designed to perform in sub-optimum placements. It is the modifications to … Continue reading "DMM Dragons"
  • Metolius Ultralight Master Cams

    Ultralight is the new light, and that puts the Ultralight Master Cams from Metolius at the forefront of hipness. These single-axle cams—the next generation of the Master Cams—are the lightest, both in physical weight and … Continue reading "Metolius Ultralight Master Cams"
  • Camalot X4

      Black Diamond’s X4s are a big addition to small protection. Even boiled down, their nuts and bolts are a mouthful: The six sizes protect from .33 to 1.62 inches, have four cam lobes and a … Continue reading "Camalot X4"
  • Black Diamond Offset Micro Stoppers

      These tiny nuts are a compound of copper and iron machined to offset wedges and swaged with a patented technology that Black Diamond claims is strong, flexible and not prone to fraying. These are … Continue reading "Black Diamond Offset Micro Stoppers"
  • Wild Country Superlight Rocks

    Nearly 30 chock shapes jam sales bins, so you wouldn’t figure it possible—or necessary—to introduce yet another version. Nevertheless, the Superlight Rocks shoulder-in by weighing a mere 3.5 ounces for a set of six ($70), … Continue reading "Wild Country Superlight Rocks"
  • CAMP Tricam Review

    Jesse and I couldn’t contain ourselves. Gunning to link Eldo’s Great Zot (5.8) with Rewritten (5.7), a five pitch loose, discontinuous crack line, we had brought a rack of 36 CAMP Tricams and 10 draws. … Continue reading "CAMP Tricam Review"
  • Metolius Supercam Review

    It took the Stanford-educated engineer and physicist John Field three years of lab work to perfect the asymmetrical design that gives the small Supercam its 1.22-inch range while maintaining a strapping 13.3 kN holding force. … Continue reading "Metolius Supercam Review"
  • Omega Pacific Linkcam Review

    In a strict contest of camming range, the Linkcam is the decisive winner—each of the two sizes expands at least 2.5 times its minimum size, giving the units an astounding range. The  #2, for instance, … Continue reading "Omega Pacific Linkcam Review"
  • Testing the new Crop of Tiny Cams

    Little Wonders: Testing the new Crop of Tiny Cams There’s something sinister about minuscule active gear. Those perfectly machined little screws and bolts, the tiny cams, the teeny-weeny wires and springs – I find these things … Continue reading "Testing the new Crop of Tiny Cams"