Wild Country FriendsOf all the cams tested, the Wild Country Friends have undergone the most significant changes from previous generations, the obvious being the conversion to two axles and an updated color scheme that matches those of … Continue reading "Wild Country Friends"
Black Diamond Camalot UltralightsNo more dieting to reach sending weight—we can just lighten our racks. The geometry of the Black Diamond’s Ultralights is almost exactly the same as that of the much-loved C4s in terms of stem rigidity, … Continue reading "Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights"
DMM DragonsUsing the smooth walls of the local Welsh slate quarries as a testing ground, DMM has produced confidence-inspiring cams that, they say, are better designed to perform in sub-optimum placements. It is the modifications to … Continue reading "DMM Dragons"
Metolius Ultralight Master CamsUltralight is the new light, and that puts the Ultralight Master Cams from Metolius at the forefront of hipness. These single-axle cams—the next generation of the Master Cams—are the lightest, both in physical weight and … Continue reading "Metolius Ultralight Master Cams"
Wild Country Helium FriendsWild Country’s latest cam offering, the Helium, is a new and different take on the Friend. The first thing you might notice is the name. “Helium” replaces “Technical Friend,” and with a change like that you would … Continue reading "Wild Country Helium Friends"
Camalot X4Black Diamond’s X4s are a big addition to small protection. Even boiled down, their nuts and bolts are a mouthful: The six sizes protect from .33 to 1.62 inches, have four cam lobes and a … Continue reading "Camalot X4"
Black Diamond Offset Micro StoppersThese tiny nuts are a compound of copper and iron machined to offset wedges and swaged with a patented technology that Black Diamond claims is strong, flexible and not prone to fraying. These are … Continue reading "Black Diamond Offset Micro Stoppers"
CAMP Tricam ReviewJesse and I couldn’t contain ourselves. Gunning to link Eldo’s Great Zot (5.8) with Rewritten (5.7), a five pitch loose, discontinuous crack line, we had brought a rack of 36 CAMP Tricams and 10 draws. … Continue reading "CAMP Tricam Review"
Metolius Supercam ReviewIt took the Stanford-educated engineer and physicist John Field three years of lab work to perfect the asymmetrical design that gives the small Supercam its 1.22-inch range while maintaining a strapping 13.3 kN holding force. … Continue reading "Metolius Supercam Review"
Omega Pacific Linkcam ReviewIn a strict contest of camming range, the Linkcam is the decisive winner—each of the two sizes expands at least 2.5 times its minimum size, giving the units an astounding range. The #2, for instance, … Continue reading "Omega Pacific Linkcam Review"
Testing the new Crop of Tiny CamsLittle Wonders: Testing the new Crop of Tiny Cams There’s something sinister about minuscule active gear. Those perfectly machined little screws and bolts, the tiny cams, the teeny-weeny wires and springs – I find these things … Continue reading "Testing the new Crop of Tiny Cams"
Trango Maxcam ReviewThe Maxcam is heralded as the first cam with an asymmetrical design (the inner cams are longer than the outer lobes) and floating axles. In theory, the Maxcam’s evolutionary design beats the Camalot’s expansion range, … Continue reading "Trango Maxcam Review"