• Metolius Ultralight Asymmetric Curve Nuts

    MSRP: $149.50 for full set (#1-10); $14.95 for individual sizes   BEST FOR: Everything trad or aid   My rack of passive pro is a bit frankenstein-ish: cobbled together from orphaned chocks at the base … Continue reading "Metolius Ultralight Asymmetric Curve Nuts"
  • Wild Country Friends

    Of all the cams tested, the Wild Country Friends have undergone the most significant changes from previous generations, the obvious being the conversion to two axles and an updated color scheme that matches those of … Continue reading "Wild Country Friends"
  • Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights

    No more dieting to reach sending weight—we can just lighten our racks. The geometry of the Black Diamond’s Ultralights is almost exactly the same as that of the much-loved C4s in terms of stem rigidity, … Continue reading "Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights"
  • DMM Dragons

    Using the smooth walls of the local Welsh slate quarries as a testing ground, DMM has produced confidence-inspiring cams that, they say, are better designed to perform in sub-optimum placements. It is the modifications to … Continue reading "DMM Dragons"
  • Metolius Ultralight Master Cams

    Ultralight is the new light, and that puts the Ultralight Master Cams from Metolius at the forefront of hipness. These single-axle cams—the next generation of the Master Cams—are the lightest, both in physical weight and … Continue reading "Metolius Ultralight Master Cams"
  • Wild Country Helium Friends

    Wild Country’s latest cam offering, the Helium, is a new and different take on the Friend. The first thing you might notice is the name. “Helium” replaces “Technical Friend,” and with a change like that you would … Continue reading "Wild Country Helium Friends"
  • Camalot X4

      Black Diamond’s X4s are a big addition to small protection. Even boiled down, their nuts and bolts are a mouthful: The six sizes protect from .33 to 1.62 inches, have four cam lobes and a … Continue reading "Camalot X4"
  • CAMP Tricam Review

    Jesse and I couldn’t contain ourselves. Gunning to link Eldo’s Great Zot (5.8) with Rewritten (5.7), a five pitch loose, discontinuous crack line, we had brought a rack of 36 CAMP Tricams and 10 draws. … Continue reading "CAMP Tricam Review"
  • Wild Country Superlight Rocks

    Nearly 30 chock shapes jam sales bins, so you wouldn’t figure it possible—or necessary—to introduce yet another version. Nevertheless, the Superlight Rocks shoulder-in by weighing a mere 3.5 ounces for a set of six ($70), … Continue reading "Wild Country Superlight Rocks"
  • Black Diamond Camalot

      The Camalot was the original extended-range cam and, in many respects, remains the pick of the litter. Already the backbone of a lot of racks, Camalots still stack up well against all newcomers. Comparably … Continue reading "Black Diamond Camalot"
  • CAMP and Trango Ball Nuts

    Balls to the Walls The key to trad climbing is the same thing that’s necessary for success in any bold endeavor: balls. I got my balls, or more precisely, Ball Nuts, in 1992, and have … Continue reading "CAMP and Trango Ball Nuts"
  • Metolius Supercam Review

    It took the Stanford-educated engineer and physicist John Field three years of lab work to perfect the asymmetrical design that gives the small Supercam its 1.22-inch range while maintaining a strapping 13.3 kN holding force. … Continue reading "Metolius Supercam Review"