• Black Diamond Momentum

    This review appeared in Rock and Ice issue 249 (April 2018). The Momentum is Black Diamond’s first foray into rock shoes. Hailed by BD as the “perfect entry-level” shoe and great for “all day comfort,” … Continue reading "Black Diamond Momentum"
  • Boreal Dharma

      MSRP: $159.95 BEST FOR: Steep bouldering and sport climbing and edging at your limit    Based on first impressions and initial use we’re really impressed by these aggressive and technical Boreal shoes, available in … Continue reading "Boreal Dharma"
  • Black Diamond Shadow

      MSRP: $179.95 BEST FOR: Hard climbing, hard bouldering   The Black Diamond Shadow is the Johnny Cash of shoes—all black, meant for business. With a downturned toe and ample room for your toes to … Continue reading "Black Diamond Shadow"
  • La Sportiva Kataki

      MSRP: $170.00 BEST FOR: Steep edging, all around   The La Sportiva Kataki is a well-designed performance shoe that is already becoming, like the Miura, a classic. It fits like the Miura, but with … Continue reading "La Sportiva Kataki"
  • Five Ten Gambit Lace

    My first outing with the Gambits was to my local bouldering gym, and I marveled as I ran laps in these luxuriously comfy shoes. The Gambit, with its reasonably stiff, non-aggressive, low-tension design, is definitely not … Continue reading "Five Ten Gambit Lace"
  • Scarpa Drago

    The Scarpa Drago is the Ferrari LaFerrari of climbing shoes—it’s sleek and sexy, and it radiates performance. It’s a supershoe. The Drago combines Scarpa’s best climbing-shoe features into one. It has the active rand and lack … Continue reading "Scarpa Drago"
  • La Sportiva Genius

        Touted by Sportiva as “the highest performance climbing shoe on the market,” the Genius incorporates the latest of Sportiva’s thinking—No-Edge technology, P3 randing and asymmetrical lacing—into one package. In 1999, Sportiva’s designer, Pietro Dal … Continue reading "La Sportiva Genius"
  • Five Ten Quantum

    After a couple of decades of being crammed into tight shoes, my tootsies started to complain. Toenail fungus, black nails, bruising: quiet indications of hurt and neglect. But it was only last week that they actually … Continue reading "Five Ten Quantum"
  • Lowa Sparrow Women’s

    Between climbing shoes and ski boots, my feet have taken a beating. So I’m a sucker for comfort. But common sentiment is that your shoes must be tight and painful to perform. “My shoes hurt … Continue reading "Lowa Sparrow Women’s"
  • Mad Rock Women’s Lotus

    Skepticism, brand prejudice, rubber rumors … these are a few reason’s why I initially doubted the new Women’s Lotus by Mad Rock. So I began climbing in the Lotus exclusively while warming up, unwilling to … Continue reading "Mad Rock Women’s Lotus"
  • Tenaya Tarifa

    The Tenaya Tarifa was a wunderwaffe (wonder weapon) used by the German Alex Megos as he rampaged through seemingly every 5.15 in the world. My curiosity drove me to try a pair myself. Is there a better … Continue reading "Tenaya Tarifa"
  • Scarpa Furia

    I’m a sensitive guy. Candlelight and kitties hold a special place in my heart. Being in touch with my feelings has also made me love sensitive climbing shoes. Such as the Scarpa Furia. The Furia … Continue reading "Scarpa Furia"