Black Diamond MomentumThis review appeared in Rock and Ice issue 249 (April 2018). The Momentum is Black Diamond’s first foray into rock shoes. Hailed by BD as the “perfect entry-level” shoe and great for “all day comfort,” … Continue reading "Black Diamond Momentum"
Boreal DharmaMSRP: $159.95 BEST FOR: Steep bouldering and sport climbing and edging at your limit Based on first impressions and initial use we’re really impressed by these aggressive and technical Boreal shoes, available in … Continue reading "Boreal Dharma"
Black Diamond ShadowMSRP: $179.95 BEST FOR: Hard climbing, hard bouldering The Black Diamond Shadow is the Johnny Cash of shoes—all black, meant for business. With a downturned toe and ample room for your toes to … Continue reading "Black Diamond Shadow"
La Sportiva KatakiMSRP: $170.00 BEST FOR: Steep edging, all around The La Sportiva Kataki is a well-designed performance shoe that is already becoming, like the Miura, a classic. It fits like the Miura, but with … Continue reading "La Sportiva Kataki"
Five Ten Gambit LaceMy first outing with the Gambits was to my local bouldering gym, and I marveled as I ran laps in these luxuriously comfy shoes. The Gambit, with its reasonably stiff, non-aggressive, low-tension design, is definitely not … Continue reading "Five Ten Gambit Lace"
Scarpa DragoThe Scarpa Drago is the Ferrari LaFerrari of climbing shoes—it’s sleek and sexy, and it radiates performance. It’s a supershoe. The Drago combines Scarpa’s best climbing-shoe features into one. It has the active rand and lack … Continue reading "Scarpa Drago"
La Sportiva GeniusTouted by Sportiva as “the highest performance climbing shoe on the market,” the Genius incorporates the latest of Sportiva’s thinking—No-Edge technology, P3 randing and asymmetrical lacing—into one package. In 1999, Sportiva’s designer, Pietro Dal … Continue reading "La Sportiva Genius"
Five Ten QuantumAfter a couple of decades of being crammed into tight shoes, my tootsies started to complain. Toenail fungus, black nails, bruising: quiet indications of hurt and neglect. But it was only last week that they actually … Continue reading "Five Ten Quantum"
Lowa Sparrow Women’sBetween climbing shoes and ski boots, my feet have taken a beating. So I’m a sucker for comfort. But common sentiment is that your shoes must be tight and painful to perform. “My shoes hurt … Continue reading "Lowa Sparrow Women’s"
Mad Rock Women’s LotusSkepticism, brand prejudice, rubber rumors … these are a few reason’s why I initially doubted the new Women’s Lotus by Mad Rock. So I began climbing in the Lotus exclusively while warming up, unwilling to … Continue reading "Mad Rock Women’s Lotus"
Tenaya TarifaThe Tenaya Tarifa was a wunderwaffe (wonder weapon) used by the German Alex Megos as he rampaged through seemingly every 5.15 in the world. My curiosity drove me to try a pair myself. Is there a better … Continue reading "Tenaya Tarifa"
Scarpa FuriaI’m a sensitive guy. Candlelight and kitties hold a special place in my heart. Being in touch with my feelings has also made me love sensitive climbing shoes. Such as the Scarpa Furia. The Furia … Continue reading "Scarpa Furia"