• Black Diamond Solution Guide

      MSRP: $99.95   BEST FOR: Anything, but especially multipitch trad   “Kevlar” was the word that jumped to my mind the first time I handled Black Diamond’s new Solution Guide Harness—the outer fabric, dubbed … Continue reading "Black Diamond Solution Guide"
  • Edelrid Jayne and Jay III Harness

    MSRP: $59.95 BEST FOR: All-around use   “You need a smaller harness,” my friend said on Saturday, as I reefed the Jayne III harness belt rightwards. “Nope. That’s what I thought at first, too.” In … Continue reading "Edelrid Jayne and Jay III Harness"
  • Blue Ice Choucas Light

      MSRP: $79.95   I was tempted to fall into the trap of cliché and write that the Choucas Light is “butt floss.” Although that would have been an apt visual, I won’t debase myself … Continue reading "Blue Ice Choucas Light"
  • Misty Mountain Custom Harness

    This review appeared in Rock and Ice issue 249 (April 2018). When I showed up to the Potrero down in Mexico and donned my new harness, I got some strange looks: What the hell was … Continue reading "Misty Mountain Custom Harness"
  • Singing Rock Women’s Pearl

      MSRP: $64.95   Hanging in a harness is rarely a joy, and after long days can even bruise. But the iridescent Pearl women’s harness, with its abundance of EVA foam padding, wide waistbelt and … Continue reading "Singing Rock Women’s Pearl"
  • Edelrid Solaris

      MSRP: $119.95   At first glance, the extra-wide Solaris looks like a corset. Then I put it on and forgot all about it. The women’s Solaris is an exceedingly comfortable all arounder focused on … Continue reading "Edelrid Solaris"
  • Black Diamond Zone

      MSRP: $99.95   The Zone is Black Diamond’s lightest harness, if barely. At 11.3 ounces for a men’s medium, the Zone is .7 ounces lighter than Black Diamond’s older and still available Solution ($69.96), … Continue reading "Black Diamond Zone"
  • Edelrid Ace

      This article appeared in Rock and Ice issue 247 (January 2018).   The weight-versus-comfort conundrum has boggled minds ever since we moved out of swami belts. Do you go ultralight and suffer numb legs, or do … Continue reading "Edelrid Ace"
  • BD Technician Women’s

      This article appeared in Rock and Ice issue 247 (January 2018).   I have shoes for all occasions: desert cracks, granite cracks, limestone sport, gym climbing, multi-pitch trad, single-pitch trad, bouldering—the list goes on. I wouldn’t … Continue reading "BD Technician Women’s"
  • Petzl Luna

      This article appeared in Rock and Ice issue 247 (January 2018).   My first harness was the Petzl Dionysis, which debuted in 1999. At a whopping 25 ounces, the Dionysis was the Cadillac of cushy sport … Continue reading "Petzl Luna"
  • Beal Ellipse XT

      This article appeared in Rock and Ice issue 247 (January 2018).   Over the last eight months, while getting my ass handed to me at climbing locations throughout the Southwestern U.S., I began to question my … Continue reading "Beal Ellipse XT"
  • Mammut Ophir Speedfit

      This article appeared in Rock and Ice issue 247 (January 2018).   Mammut bills the Ophir Speedfit as an all-around harness, and over the course of a couple of months I used it for long moderate … Continue reading "Mammut Ophir Speedfit"