Scarpa Furia S
The Maserati of the Scarpa line!
BEST FOR: Hard sport climbing
As a longtime Scarpa Furia fan—I’ve purchased four pairs and had several resoles—for sport climbing and bouldering, I was naturally curious about the introduction of the Furia S, which the company touts as a “slightly softer design for an ultra-sensitive feel.”
While the midsole-less Furia features a thin, 3.5mm outsole (Vibram XS Grip rubber) and an aggressively downturned shape, the Furia S shares those characteristics but adds a 1.0mm Flexan midsole. Though the midsole might sound like a stiffening element, the big-toe area is “floating,” i.e. the midsole material is absent there, and the shoe felt extremely sensitive in this powerful area.
The single z-shaped Velcro strap system locked in the fit fairly well, but I wasn’t able to secure it as tightly as with the Furia’s double-strap closures, and experienced a slight amount of “bagging” in the instep/mid-foot area. (My foot shape is medium width and volume, with a high-instep and arch.)
The Furia S also slathers on plenty of rubber around most of the shoe, noticeably in the forefoot, which made for excellent toe and heel hooking/scumming. Overall, the Furia S feels more sensitive than the Furia and worked great for overhanging rock and plastic. For edging, the Furia offers more power and precision.
So, if you’re looking for a high-end sport shoe (the lighter and more minimalist they get, the more they cost, right?), the Furia S— the Maserati of the Scarpa line—is worth a look.
Rock and Ice vigorously tests all gear it reviews for either 50 days or 50 pitches. This is a time-consuming process and limits the amount of new equipment we can present to our readers. Every year hundreds of new products hit store shelves, and most of these aren’t reviewed due to our stringent selection and review process. To better keep you more up to date on what is new, we present First Look. Gear in First Look has not always been field tested, but is gear we think you’d like to know about as soon as it is available. Some of the gear will be reviewed using our 50 days/50 pitches criteria, in future print and online editions of Rock and Ice. We have opted to use affiliate links in our gear reviews. Every time you buy something after clicking on links in our gear articles you’re helping support our magazine.
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