Siegrist Fills Up on “All You Can Eat,” 5.15a FA in Nevada
Jonathan Siegrist was hungry for hard climbing this winter, and got his fill at Mt. Potosi, Nevada. Last week, Siegrist established his hardest first ascent to date: All You Can Eat, a 5.15a link-up of two other 5.14+ routes in the Clear Light Cave.
In 2017, after making the second ascent of Bachelor Party, one of the country’s first 5.14d’s, established by François Legrand, Siegrist first saw the line that would become All You Can Eat. “I saw then that there was an obvious way to basically finish [Andy Raether’s Eggporkalypse (5.14d)] and climb directly into the meat of Bachelor Party to the top of the wall,” he told Rock and Ice.
He came back and polished off Eggporkalypse this January, and started in on the link-up he had envisioned. The weather had other plans, though. “I got sidelined many times this season due to wetness because the winter was really intense (cold and wet) here in Vegas and the route seeps quite a bit,” Siegrist said.
After spending at least 12 sessions up in the Clear Light Cave to piece the project together, he finally sent last week.
Siegrist broke down the route for Rock and Ice as follows: “The route starts with a dynamic, jumpy 14b to a pretty decent rest at about 1/3 height, then a section of compression/bouldery 14b or so with a little shake in the middle, directly into another pocketed, tensiony 14bish again to the anchor with no resting.”
And the crux? Oh boy. “The finishing boulder problem at the lip of the cave is a pretty heinous double mono crux,” Siegrist said. “You have to cut your feet out of the roof and then do a really hard move up to a left gaston literally feet below the anchor.”
As for the name, Siegrist wanted to pay tribute to Raether’s playful Eggporkalypse name. “Plus the style of the route is just never-ending endurance so All you Can Eat seemed fitting, especially in a place like Vegas,” he said.
All You Can Eat joins one of just a handful of other 5.15s on American soil. The two hardest climbs in the States are widely considered to be Jumbo Love (5.15b), Clark Mountain, California—first climbed by Chris Sharma, and only repeated by Ethan Pringle and Sieigrist—and Flex Luthor (5.15b?), Fortress of Solitude, Colorado, an unrepeated Tommy Caldwell route.
A 30-year-old Omaha native and mother of two was 15 feet shy of topping out before she descended (and was arrested).read more
Widely spaced ring bolts; no chalk; and no cams, nuts or modern metal protection. The Elbsandstein, Germany is not for the faint of heart.read more