Siegrist Fills Up on “All You Can Eat,” 5.15a FA in Nevada

By Rock and Ice | April 4th, 2019

Siegrist on All You Can Eat (9a+) in the big roof of the Clear Light Cave, Mt. Potosi, Nevada. Photo: Matt Kuehl.

 

Jonathan Siegrist was hungry for hard climbing this winter, and got his fill at Mt. Potosi, Nevada. Last week, Siegrist established his hardest first ascent to date: All You Can Eat, a 5.15a link-up of two other 5.14+ routes in the Clear Light Cave.

In 2017, after making the second ascent of Bachelor Party, one of the country’s first 5.14d’s, established by François Legrand, Siegrist first saw the line that would become All You Can Eat. “I saw then that there was an obvious way to basically finish [Andy Raether’s Eggporkalypse (5.14d)] and climb directly into the meat of Bachelor Party to the top of the wall,” he told Rock and Ice.

 

[Also Watch VIDEO: Comfort Zone – Alex Honnold And Jonathan Siegrist]

 

Despite a wet, cold winter (note the icicles!) and lots of seeping in the cave, Siegrist was able to finish All You Can Eat off at the start of spring. Photo: Matt Kuehl.

He came back and polished off Eggporkalypse this January, and started in on the link-up he had envisioned. The weather had other plans, though. “I got sidelined many times this season due to wetness because the winter was really intense (cold and wet) here in Vegas and the route seeps quite a bit,” Siegrist said.

After spending at least 12 sessions up in the Clear Light Cave to piece the project together, he finally sent last week.

Siegrist broke down the route for Rock and Ice as follows: “The route starts with a dynamic, jumpy 14b to a pretty decent rest at about 1/3 height, then a section of compression/bouldery 14b or so with a little shake in the middle, directly into another pocketed, tensiony 14bish again to the anchor with no resting.”

And the crux? Oh boy. “The finishing boulder problem at the lip of the cave is a pretty heinous double mono crux,” Siegrist said. “You have to cut your feet out of the roof and then do a really hard move up to a left gaston literally feet below the anchor.”

 

[Also Read OPEN LETTER: CHIPPING AND MANUFACTURING CLIMBS IN TEN SLEEP CANYON NEEDS TO STOP]

 

As for the name, Siegrist wanted to  pay tribute to Raether’s playful Eggporkalypse name. “Plus the style of the route is just never-ending endurance so All you Can Eat seemed fitting, especially in a place like Vegas,” he said.

All You Can Eat joins one of just a handful of other 5.15s on American soil. The two hardest climbs in the States are widely considered to be Jumbo Love (5.15b), Clark Mountain, California—first climbed by Chris Sharma, and only repeated by Ethan Pringle and Sieigrist—and Flex Luthor (5.15b?), Fortress of Solitude, Colorado, an unrepeated Tommy Caldwell route.



 

Also Read

 

Interview: Jonathan Siegrist Goes Big with Third Ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b)

 

Siegrist Scores First Repeat Of Kinder’s Bone Tomahawk (5.15a)

 

Jonathan Siegist: Ten Climbs, One Year

 

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The 2019 edition of Ascent—compendium of the year’s best writing—is now available! For a preview of what’s inside, check out Francis Sanzaro’s Editor’s Note.

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