Séb Bouin Finally Repeats Ondra’s “Move” (5.15b/c) After 4 Years of Work

By Rock and Ice | June 18th, 2019

Bouin on Move. Photo: Raphael Fourau.

 

Some projects simply take longer than others! Séb Bouin, the 26-year-old from France, has finally sent his nemesis project, Move, a 9b/+ (5.15b/c) established by Adam Ondra in Flatanger, Norway back in 2013. Bouin belayed Ondra on the first ascent nearly six years ago, and his redpoint is now the second.

 

Also Watch VIDEO: Adam Ondra Sending Move

 

“I started working this route in 2016-2017,” Bouin wrote in an email to Rock and Ice and other media. Over the next several years he made five trips to Norway—each roughly two to three weeks in length—to project the route.

He was inspired to try it not just because of its difficulty but because “it’s a MEGA LINE, it’s hard and beautiful,” he said. Move is 50 meters long and can be broken down into two distinct sections—an endurance-based 5.14d, followed by a bouldery 5.14d. The hardest single sequence occurs right near the end.

 

Watch Bouin Projecting Move Back in 2018

 

Bouin, who has established a number of exceedingly difficult climbs himself over the past few years, believes Move is the hardest route he’s ever done. “It could be easy 9b+ [5.15c] (Adam was thinking 9b+ but said 9b/+ because this route it’s not so much his style) or super hard 9b [5.15b],” Bouin wrote. “I think the 9b/+ grade could be the good one.”

 

Also Watch VIDEO: First Ascent of La Côte d’Usure (5.15a)

 

In April of this year, Bouin repeated another Adam Ondra 9b, Mamichula, in Oliana, Spain. That was the first repetition of that climb as well. In 2017, Bouin made the first ascent of Les yeux plus gros que l’antre (9a+/b 5.15a/b). In 2015, he made the third ascent of the notoriously long and Chilam Balam (9b), Villanueva del Rosario, Spain.

Next for Bouin? Another project, of course! And he ended his email with a cheeky little line about what his next obsession might be: “The one to the right [of Move] looks like a good one!!! It’s called “Silence”….”


 

Also Watch

 

VIDEO: Silence – The World’s First 5.15d

 

 

Adam Ondra on Move, on the cover of Rock and Ice issue 215 (January 2014). Cover Photo: Claudia Ziegler.

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