Rocklands Roundup Part II

Rock and Ice takes another look back at the most impressive climbs of the Rocklands season, particularly the V15 first ascents.

By Tyler Macdonald | September 22nd, 2018

 

The 2018 Rocklands season has come to a close and with that, Rock and Ice takes a look back at what was certainly one of the most impressive seasons we have seen in South Africa.

 

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Made the first ascent of Parzival [8C] last week out in the Gallery 💫 This amazing line baffled me the first time I saw it years ago; it looked super cool but I had no clue how to climb it 🤯 After stumbling upon it again during a hike this this season I saw astonished that it possibly could work, and if so, it would be a crazy epic two-part rig which sits at the base of this crazy disc shaped bloc suspended over a small canyon and summits directly up the prow 😳. After the initial beta hunting sessions had ensued, it was quite clear it was gonna not be easy to conquer this beast 😬 Super technical yet fierce in its nature, this thing is a crazy mix of power-resistance climbing, body position, memory, kneebars and yes; blind toe-hooking 🤪🤔!!! I was enchanted by the style of climbing, the rock, and its length; early on the fear set in of punting of the complex 8a finish once your done with the poor rest 😅 Ultimately it took many sessions to become familiar with the super burly entrance, extremely dry conditions, and a little bit of luck that everything sort of slides in to place to take this one to the top⚡️One week left before Switzerland to play with all the infinite boulders here 🤗 VAMOSSSS 🔥 @island_io @fiveten_official @petzl_official @frictionlabs @sendclimbing

A post shared by Dave Graham (@dave_graham_) on

 

Since our last look, a handful of important sends have taken place, capping a stellar Rocklands season. Shawn Raboutou put up a burly first ascent called Book Club (8B+/ V14) that was then repeated by underground Spanish crusher Ignacio Mulero and Daniel Woods. Continuing on the first ascent train, Dave Graham put up a unique FA called Parzival (8C/ V15). As of writing this post and to our knowledge, this line has yet to see a second ascent. Yet another hard first ascent was made by Swiss climber Giuliano Cameroni. Cameroni is calling his 8C/V15 beast The Smile.

 

 

In other Rocklands news, Dave Graham successfully pieced together Black Eagle (8C/ V15). Black Eagle had remained unclimbed for 16 years due to broken holds. Graham was able to parse out a new sequence and bring Black Eagle back to Rocklands prominence. Welcoming the climb back to the Rocklands scene was Giuliano Cameroni and Daniel Woods, who jumped on the opportunity to send the forgotten rig after Graham brought it back to life.

Daniel Woods also managed an ascent of Mirta (8B+/V14) and a second ascent of Skadoosh (8B+/V14). Nalle Hukkataival continued his mission to continue to develop the Rocklands with a few FAs. Most notably, Hukkataival put up a 8B+/ V14 called Getting By and an 8B/V13 called Digital Populism which Hukkataival has given a lofty five star review.

 

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Successfully resurrected the legendary @fred_nicole sit-start to Black Eagle [8C] 🌀After 16 years of lying dormant due to many broken holds, this rig finally has a new sequence seemingly ready to stand the test of time and traffic a true classic deserves 💎 This striking line climbs as nice as it looks 🤓 Powerful compression moves with complex foot sequences lead to a bizarre undefinable balance move off a bizarre left toe hook and a terrible non-hold out right. Extremely Fontainebleau-esque with its semi-unexplainable beta, enjoyable to project with its shady orientation and comfortable holds; this has to be one of my favorite climbs of this style I’ve climbed in a long time 💫 Five weeks left here in this majestic paradise with all these amazing people 🙌🏻 🇿🇦😀 VAMOS 🔥 @island_io @fiveten_official @petzl_official @frictionlabs @climbskinspain @sendclimbing

A post shared by Dave Graham (@dave_graham_) on

 

For more information of this season’s sends, take a look at Rocklands Roundup part one.


 

Also Read

Dave Graham Sends Woods’ Noise vs. Beauty (V14/V15) in Rocklands

Shawn Raboutou Nabs Fourth Ascent of The Finnish Line (V15/16) in Rocklands

Also Watch

Nalle Hukkataival in Rocklands- The Realm

12-Year-Old Oriane Bertone Sends Golden Shadow (8B+/V14) in Rocklands

Nalle Hukkataival- The Finnish Line (V16) – Rocklands’ Hardest Boulder

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