Robert Jasper Climbs “Meltdown,” Solo First Ascent on North Face of the Eiger

Robert Jasper, extreme mountaineer from the German Black Forest, scores another first ascent, solo, on the north face of the Eiger.

By Daniela Jasper | October 1st, 2019

Jasper on Meltdown. Photo: Nicolas Hojac.

 

This summer, Robert Jasper set his sights on another first ascent on his favorite wall, the historic Eiger north face, to prepare for an upcoming expedition to the largely unexplored northern inland ice of Patagonia.

He climbed through the face on terrain that had been untouched to date in rope-solo style. Jasper was able to redpoint his route, which he named Meltdown (7a+/5.12a).

Photo: Nicolas Hojac.

Jasper knows the Eiger’s north face like only few do. In 1985, at only 17 years old, he climbed the huge wall of rock and ice for the first time. Today, he has amassed over 360 days on the wall and a number of first ascents (some solo). He has climbed the face via 19 different routes.

The name Meltdown comes from his observations of the north face over these 19 years. He has noticed the rapid melting of ice and glaciers at a quicker and quicker pace. Last summer, the ice fields were completely melted and had vanished for the first time in mountaineering history.

He views the name as a call to action: Aside from decision-makers in the economy and in politics, each and every one of us has to make changes. “I believe we should all take personal steps against climate change. Otherwise it will be too late not only for our mountains but also for our future!” says Jasper.

 


Meltdown

7a+ (5.12a), 11 pitches

Right side of the North Face of the Eiger

Bernese Oberland, Switzerland

 

First Ascent, rope-solo, by Robert Jasper

 

Also Read

 

Marek Holeček Does Beautiful FA in Peru Under a Burning Sky

avatar
  Subscribe  
Notify of

Winter Expedition Rundown: K2, Everest, Broad Peak

The 2020 winter season is seeing several major expeditions in Nepal and Pakistan. From Jost Kobusch working on the first solo, unsupported, sans-supplemental oxygen winter ascent of Everest to Denis Urubko and Don Bowie attempting Broad Peak, a host of big alpinists are battling a host of big mountains.

read more

Interview: Simone Moro on Expedition-Ending Accident on Gasherbrum I with Tamara Lunger

“In the moment that she was putting the rope through the carabiner on her harness, at that moment I  simultaneously took my first step—and immediately everything under my feet broke. And I started to fall.”

read more