Ondra Sends Three 5.14d’s in One DayYesterday, Adam Ondra went on one of the most impressive, one-day sending sprees of all time by climbing three 5.14d's in a matter of tries.
Yesterday, Adam Ondra went on one of the most impressive, one-day sending sprees of all time by climbing three 5.14d’s in a matter of tries. According to his 8a.nu scorecard, Ondra first tried The Elder Statesman, which is a 30-move powerfest established by Markus Bock in 2011. The route kept Ondra busy for all of 20 minutes.
“Close to flashing, fired it off 20mins later. Thanks for beta Alex!” wrote Ondra on his scorecard.
Next, Ondra moved on to try another Bock line, The House of Shock. Ondra described the route as “Tough bouldering on tiny holds … hardest 9a of the day.”
Finally, Ondra wrapped up his monumental day by trying Sever the Wicked Hand–once again another Bock testpiece that goes at 5.14d. Ondra dispatched the line first try, while hanging the draws according to 8a.nu.
“Tried two days before in severe humidity, now did it 1st go while clipping the draws in. 3rd 9a of the day, even though this one must be pretty soft,” wrote Ondra on his scorecard.
Ondra’s unprecedented feat of sending three 5.14’s in one day demonstrates the ease at which he can climb the grade. Currently Ondra has climbed 85 routes at 5.14d or harder, according to 8a.nu. ” [Three] times as many as the runner up on this list, Chris Sharma,” sates the website.
Ondra is no stranger to the finger intensive climbs of Germany’s pocketed Frankenjura. In 2008, at just 15 years old, Ondra made headlines by repeating Wolfgang Güllich’s famous Action Direct (5.14d). The following year, he claimed the third 5.15a of his career by repeating one of the Frankenjura’s hardest– Markus Bock’s Corona.
Check out this amazing video by Petr Pavlíček of Adam Ondra sending yet another 9a (5.14d) in the Frankenjura forest– Der Heilige Gral (5.14d)–on his second try.
40 meters, overhanging the whole way, and almost entirely on ice.read more