New V15 by Stráník and Quick Second Ascent by Ondra

Stráník made the first ascent of Liquid Luck (8C/V15) and Ondra made the repeat less than three days later.

By Owen Clarke | June 25th, 2018

The Czech climber Martin Stráník put up a new 8C (V15), Liquid Luck (Tekuté Štěstí), last Friday in Moravian Karst, in the eastern Czech Republic. The problem follows a roof out of Sloupská Cave, leading to a big right-handed dyno up onto an overhanging face.

Stráník told 8a.nu, “I tried it barely during last years, doing stand up version and figuring out sit start moves. The process of proper trying was three days. It is great powerful problem with hard ending.” On his 8a.nu scorecard, Stráník also wrote that it is now “one of the hardest boulders” in the Czech Republic.

Adam Ondra swooped in for the second ascent almost immediately. In an Instagram post this morning, which showed a video of his ascent, he called the problem“One of the best in Moravsky kras!” Ondra has put up numerous 8Cs in the region, including Pata ledovce, Drift and Kráter . He has also established two 8C+’s (V16) in the area: Terranova and Vrtule. None of these problems have seen a repeat.

Stráník, who is 28 years old, came in second in the IFSC Bouldering World Championship back in 2007, climbed his first 8C (V15), Chris Sharma’s Practice of the Wild, in Magic Wood, Switzerland back in the fall of 2014. He then made the 12th ascent of Dave Graham’s A Story of Two Worlds (8C/V15) the next year, also in Switzerland. Stráník competed in the Vail World Cup at the beginning of June, along with his brother Štěpán. “The Colorado mountains are one of the most beautiful parts of the world I have ever been to,” Stráník wrote on his blog. The duo came in 29th and 69th, respectively. “Next time we’ll probably buy some oxygen as some other competitors did. The 2000 meters above the sea level had their share of impact on our performance.” -Owen Clarke


 

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