New 5.15b/c From Seb Bouin (With the Ondra Seal of Approval)

Ondra thinks it could be even harder.

By Rock and Ice | September 6th, 2019

The hard lines just keep falling for Seb Bouin: After ticking Mamichula (9b/5.15b) and Move (9b/+ 5.15b/c) earlier this year, he has now done his hardest first ascent to date, La Rage d’Adam (9b/+).

 

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Bouin worked on the new route, in the Verdon Gorge, France, intermittently for four years, only putting it a concerted effort to finish it off this year. It begins with a 5.14b climbing before the crux boulder problem. “It’s around 10 amazing move on little pinches and underlings in a super [overhanging] part,” Bouin wrote on Instagram.

 

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Adam Ondra had tried the route in the past, too, and Bouin solicited his advice on the grade—doesn’t hurt to have the world’s best climber in your corner vouching for you.

According to Bouin, Ondra wrote that when he tried the crux of La Rage d’Adam, “Even after 20 minutes I did not really imagine any possible sequence that could make it more climbable. After even minutes hanging in the bolts, I came up with some crazy gaston beta, but I could not do the moves either and dismissed the route as too hard to be climbable in the near future…

Ondra evidently thought Bouin’s grade suggestion was right on: “My guess is that it could be more of 9b/b+, if not even harder, based on my one and only experience of the route – which felt HARD!”


 

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Séb Bouin Finally Repeats Ondra’s Move (5.15b/c) After 4 Years of Work

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