“Mamichula” (5.15b) for Séb Bouin!

By Rock and Ice | April 17th, 2019

Bouin on Mamichula.Photo: Jan Novak.

Séb Bouin has made the first repetition of Mamichula, a 9b (5.15b) in Oliana, Spain that Adam Ondra called “hard 9b” after establishing it in February 2017.

“What a day Yesterday,” Bouin told Rock and Ice in an email. “I had the best belayer possible for this route, my super Mami (mom).”

While it is Bouin’s hardest route to date on “paper,” he said that he is not sure it is his hardest in “reality.” Some of his hardest sends to date include Chilam Bilam, a 9b in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain; Les yeux plus gros que l’antre, a 9a+/9b (5.15a/b) in France, a first ascent by Bouin;  and La Côte d’Usure, a 9a+  in the Verdon, France, also a first ascent.

Mamichula is a link-up of pieces of two classic Chris Sharma 9a+’s, Papichulo and Pachamama. Recently, Margo Hayes sent Papichulo as her third 5.15a.

Now that Bouin has deemed Mamichula to be easier than some of his other ascents which he graded lower, he’s eager for others to repeat his creations and see how hard they really are. “I am psyched to see some climbers in my latest mega lines in France,” he wrote.


 

Also Read

 

Interview: Margo Hayes on Papichulo (5.15a)

 

Dani Andrada Sends Chilam Balam (5.15b)

Also Watch

 

VIDEO: Adam Ondra on the FA of Mamichula (9b/5.15b), Oliana, Spain

Subscribe
Notify of
guest
0 Comments
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments

Kai Lightner Launches Non-Profit "Climbing For Change" to Address Racial Inequality in Rock Climbing

“A lot of us are conditioned not to enter spaces that are predominantly white or where we’re not represented in the community,” Lightner told Rock and Ice. With Climbing for Change, he aims to challenge that.

read more

Dillon Blanksma, 26, Dies in Fall from Broadway Ledge on the Diamond, RMNP

Broadway, the ledge from which Dillon Blanksma fell, about a third of the way up the East Face of Longs Peak, is the starting point for many classic routes on the Diamond.

read more