Laura Rogora Redpoints Another 5.14d and Gets Her First 5.14a Onsight

Strong work from the young Italian crusher.

By Rock and Ice | January 8th, 2020

Laura Rogora on Pal Norte (8c+/9a 5.14c/d), one of her hard redpoints on her recent trip to Margalef. Photo: Federico Frullani.

 

Rogora on La Bongada. Photo: Sarah Grippo.

On her recent trip to Margalef, Catalonia, Spain, 18-year-old Laura Rogora, of Italy, racked up quite the ticklist.  First was a 5.14c/d. Next a 5.14b. She followed that up with a 5.14a onsight. And, for good measure, finished everything off with a 5.14d.

The trip started off well: In the closing days of 2019, Rogora ticked Pal Norte (8c+/9a 5.14c/d) and Espiadimonis (8c/5.14b).

But it was when the calendar changed to 2020 that she kicked things into high gear. First up was an 8b+ (5.14a) onsight, when she climbed L-Mens, in Montsant, sight unseen. It was her for first onsight at the grade. Few women have onsighted 5.14a, Josune Bereziartu, Sasha DiGiulian, Anak Verhoeven, Kajsa Rosén, and Evgeniya Malamid, to name a few.

 

[Also Read Interview: Hazel Findlay On Magic Line (5.14c R)]

 

Rogora saved the best for last, redpointing La Bongada (9a/5.14d), her fifth of the grade a few days ago.

She told Rock and Ice about the process:”La Bongada took me 6 tries over two days. On the first try  figured out all the moves. The route has an explosive start, then there is an easier part which leads into the key section. I immediately felt comfortable on the moves, so on the second day I did a serious attempt and I climbed unexpectedly high.”

Rogora continued, “I arrived at the very last hard move but then I placed my foot badly and I slipped just before the last bolt. I rested one hour and then I tried again. I knew that this time would be harder because I felt more tired, but I climbed well and I clipped the chains!”

Prior to La Bongada, Rogora’s most recent 9a wasRèveille-toi, Cueva di Collepardo, Rome, Italy.


 

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