Jacopo Larcher Gets Second Ascent of Helmutant (5.14d), Italy (With Video)

Italian professional rock climber and route setter, Jacopo Larcher, claimed the second ascent of Helmutant (5.14d) in South Tyrol, Italy Tuesday. The route, which was bolted by Helmut Haller and first climbed by Michael Piccolruaz, is one of a few "natural" - no holds chipped or made with tools - routes in the area and is the hardest in South Tyrol.

By Zeno Wicks | April 15th, 2015

Italian climber, Jacopo Larcher, claimed the second ascent of Helmutant (5.14d) in South Tyrol, Italy Tuesday.

Helmutant was bolted by Helmut Haller nearly 10 years ago and first climbed by Michael Piccolruaz in 2014. It is located in the Saustal crag at the head of the Schnalstal Valley, and is the hardest climb to date in South Tyrol. 

“I had tried [Helmutant] three-fourths of a year ago, when it was still an [open] project, but I couldn’t do one of the crux moves,” Larcher told Rock and Ice. “I came back this year as I was working around the area and had a go to check it out again. I could do all the moves immediately and made a good link straight after.”



Using Piccolruaz’s beta for the final crux move, Larcher was able to complete the route in just two more days. Larcher says the route is the only “natural” route in the area – none of the holds were chipped or made with tools.

“You know how people were used to do things here in Europe in the 90s,” Larcher says. “The cool thing is that the guy who bolted it, had the vision not to chip holds and left it to the future generations.”

Larcher is based in Bludenz, Austria but is currently at his parents in South Tyrol setting for the Italian national team and some local competitions. He can typically be found climbing hard sport, traditional and boulder problems anywhere between Austria and South Tyrol, as well as all over the world.  


Helmutant (9a) Saustall/ Südtirol from Vertical Life on Vimeo.

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