Interview: Japanese Crusher Shinichiro Nomura
What does the up-and-coming crusher like to do in his free time (besides send V15s, of course)? Find out here in an exclusive R&I interview
Who is Shinichiro Nomura? Hailing from Ibaraki, Japan, the twenty-one-year-old climber has nicked five (8C) V15 boulder problems in the last six months since he first began climbing outside in December. Rock and Ice caught up with Shinichiro via email to get the lowdown on what goes on inside the mind of a guy who munches hard boulders for breakfast.
Q&A with Shinichiro Nomura
How long have you been climbing indoors/outside?
12 years indoors. I went outdoor climbing a few times four years ago, but I started it seriously last December.
Do you like to climb indoors in a gym, or outside more?
I like both. But if I have to choose, I prefer outdoor climbing. The reason is that I can talk about certain problems with other climbers who climbed the same ones, and for me that adds meaning to each problem.
Who do you look up to most as a climber? Do you have a role model?
I look up to Alex Megos and Alex Honnold. Dai Koyamada is a role model for me.
Do you want to pursue other types of climbing in the future? Sport? Trad? Big walls? Or stick to bouldering?
If I become good in outdoor lead climbing, I would like to pursue big walls someday. It’s beyond my imagination at this moment, but I would like to experience a such world.
Where is your favorite place to climb outside?
Toyota, at present. The reason is Toyota was the first place where I was enthralled by outdoor bouldering. There are so many problems and each of them are really wonderful.
Who is your favorite musician?
Clean Bandit. The mixture of classical music and beat of dance music makes me feel good.
Life Is Beautiful (1997). I know I will be moved at last every time I watch it but I can enjoy it as a comedy drama.
What do you like to do for fun, besides climbing?
Watching movies, having some drinks and spending time with friends that have good chemistry.
If you had to lose one arm or one leg, which would you lose? Why
I would choose one leg. If I had two arms left, I would be able to continue climbing with their grips.
You’ve climbed five 8C (V15) problems now. What would you like to climb next?
There are many problems I want to climb because my career has just begun. But at present, I would like to climb Lucid Dreaming (Bishop, V15) and Amaterasu in Japan.
Have you ever tried 8C+ (V16)? Maybe the Koyamada problem, Nayuta?
I have never seen and tried 8C+. Nayuta is definitely the one I’d love to try.
What is your favorite boulder problem outside that you have climbed? Why?
I liked each of them but Hydrangea is special among them. Until quite recently, I had been wondering whether the day I can climb Hydrangea will or will not come. When I did it, I was too happy to believe it. Except Hydrangea, Tachi (8A/V11)and Bunmeikaika (7A/V6) in Toyota are my favorite. -Owen Clarke
El Capitan, Yosemite, Unpublished, 1964read more