Garnbret Continues Her Reign in Arco, Schubert Back on Top

Janja Garnbret took a lead gold again in Arco while Jakob Schubert came back to win for the second time this season. In speed, Danyil Boldyrev defended his Chamonix gold and Iuliia Kaplina took first place for the women.

By Owen Clarke | August 8th, 2018

Janja Garnbret preps for the next move in finals. She fell from the next hold, but it was enough to win gold. Photo: Eddie Fowke.


Janja Garnbret has been utterly dominating the 2018 lead season, and the World Cup in Arco, Italy, was no different. The 19-year-old Slovenian won her third World Cup of the year. The only 2018 lead World Cup she hasn’t won so far is Chamonix, where she placed second behind Austria’s Jessica Pilz. Meanwhile, Jakob Schubert of Austria returned to the men’s podium after a fourth place finish in Briancon. The Ukrainian Danyil Boldyrev held onto his gold from Chamonix in men’s speed, while Russia’s Iuliia Kaplina took the top spot for the women.

Women’s semi-finals saw Garnbret, Pilz and Anak Verhoeven of Belgium, the same podium trio from Briancon, advance, along with the American Claire Buhrfeind. Helene Janicot and Manon Hily of France, Christine Schranz of Austria and Levgeniia Kazbekova of Ukraine rounded out the finalists. The women’s podium from Briancon stayed identical in Arco, with Anak Verhoeven taking bronze, after timing out, and Pilz silver, falling a few moves short of the top. Garnbret beat out her competitors for another gold, though none of the women managed to top the final route. Buhrfeind, who came into finals in fourth, kept her place in the end, while Schranz, who came in in third, dropped to eighth, with only nine points in the finals.

Men’s lead podium. From left: Ghisolfi, Schubert, Skofic. Photo: Eddie Fowke

Schubert, Sascha Lehmann of Switzerland, Domen Skofic of Slovenia and Shuta Tanaka of Japan went into men’s finals in the lead, with Lehmann ahead of the pack and the other three tied at 44+. Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic followed in fifth, with Stefano Ghisolfi of Italy, Chamonix’s gold medalist, on his tail. Alberto Gines Lopez of Spain and Hyunbin Min of Korea rounded out the finalists. Almost three quarters of the way up the wall, Skofic slipped while clipping, but it was enough to net him bronze. Ghisolfi put on a strong showing, but it wasn’t enough to beat Schubert, who took his 21st career win, his second gold and third podium of the 2018 season.

Women’s speed finals. Kaplina vs. Krasaviina. Photo: Eddie Fowke

In the sixth women’s Speed World Cup of 2018, Maria Krasaviina of Russia battled against countrywoman Iuliia Kaplina. Krasaviina narrowly lost with a time of 7.62 to her opponent’s 7.41. This gave the Russian her third podium of the season after bronzes in Chamonix and Villars, while Kaplina netted her first 2018 gold and second podium, after a silver at home in Moscow. The men’s speed event saw Danyil Boldyrev, Chamonix’s winner, successfully, but barely, defend the medal against Aleksandr Shilov of Russia, winning with a time of 5.58 to Shilov’s 5.70. -Owen Clarke

Aleksandr Shilov lowers as Danyil Boldyrev celebrates after defending his gold medal in Speed. Photo: Eddie Fowke


Men’s Lead

Women’s Lead

Men’s Speed

Women’s Speed

For full results, visit the IFSC’s website.

All photos of the Arco World Cup are provided by photographer Eddie Fowke. To support Fowke and ensure he can continue to provide coverage of these events please consider donating to his GoFundMe campaign here.


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Jessica Pilz and Stefano Ghisolfi Win Chamonix Lead World Cup

Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert Take Gold In Villars Lead World Cup

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