First Female M14

Lucie Hrozova of the Czech Republic just became the first woman to climb M14 when she sent the route Ironman in Eptingen, Switzerland on February 4.

By Shelby Carpenter | February 11th, 2013

Robert Jasper on the first ascent of <em>Ironman</em> M14. ” />Lucie Hrozova of the Czech Republic just became the first woman to climb M14 when she sent the route <em>Ironman</em> in Eptingen, Switzerland on February 4. Hrozova’s other notable sends include <em>Spiderman</em> (M13) and <em>Superman </em>(M13+), also at Eptingen.</p>
<p>Ines Papert has previously set the standard for hard female ice and mixed climbs. Papert has onsighted M11 and done a first ascent of a 250-meter M12 in Icefall Brook Canyon that has so far gone unrepeated. She has also climbed up to the M13 route <em>Law and Order</em>. </p>
<p>The first ascentionist of <em>Ironman</em>, Robert Jasper, rated the route at M14. However, both Ines Papert and Will Gadd have stated how difficult it is to confirm mixed grades.</p>
<p>“There are very few M14 around, I have never attempted any because, so far I was not interested on each line,” Ines Papert writes in an e-mail to <em>Rock and Ice</em>. “Plus, the grading is hard to confirm–if you find just a little tiny hole (some people help the rock to get a hole) it’s much easier.”</p>
<p>“There are a few contenders for ‘hardest,'” Will Gadd writes. “I climbed <em>Steel Koan</em> in the Cineplex a few years back and rated it M13+, but increasingly the hardest mixed routes are pure rock, no ice at all, and get “D” for Dry ratings. It’s become a game in its own right; Robert Jasper claims a “D” for Dry 14, could be, but more and more the feeling is that the harder routes change so quickly with repeated ascents that rating them is really difficult. The fact is that picks on rock, especially the chossy limestone that a lot the M and D routes are on, can really change the rock very quickly.” </p>
<p>Check out a video below of Robert Jasper on <em>Ironman</em>.</p>
<p><em></em><iframe width=

Photo is a screenshot from the above video.

Notify of

Roger Schaeli's 50 Eiger Ascents

The 41-year-old Swiss climber has made over 50 complete ascents of the mountain’s North Face over 23 years, including numerous first ascents and first repeats.

read more

Rock and Ice (and 220 other Publications!) are Covering Climate Now

This story is part of Covering Climate Now, a global collaboration of more than 220 news outlets to strengthen coverage of the climate story. Follow along for more climate-related coverage from Rock and Ice, September 16-23.

read more

Peace and Passion for Connor Herson

The 16-year-old climber has sent Ron Kauk’s Yosemite masterpiece (5.13d)—just the latest in a series of impressive climbs.

read more