Edu Marin Frees “Valhalla,” Longest (304 Meters) and Hardest (5.15a) Roof in the World

That’s a loooooong and haaaard roof.

By Rock and Ice | March 20th, 2019

Edu Marín can finally stop climbing upside down: After six months of effort, he has freed Valhalla, his behemoth 304-meter roof project in the Great Arch, Getu, China.

Marín reported on Instagram, “TODAY, WE HAVE CLIMBED VALHALLA!”


[Also Watch VIDEO: Alex Honnold & Felipe Camargo Attempt Corazón de Ensueño (5.14b) in Getu’s Great Arch]


Previously, Marín had redpointed all of the pitches individually. The route consists of 14 pitches rated, in order: 7b+ (5.12a), 7a (5.11d), 8a+ (5.13c), 7c+ (5.13a), 9a+, 8b+ (5.14a), 8a (5.13b), 8c+ (5.14c), 8a+ (5.13c), 8b (5.13d), 8a+(5.13c), 8c+ (5.14c), 8a+ (5.13c), 8a+ (5.13c). The first four pitches ascend the vertical wall to reach the roof, and the rest of the pitches climb the horizontal roof, to a shorter, still severely overhanging headwall at the cave’s entrance. While the roof spans some 304 horizontal meters, in total the route covers over 450 meters of terrain when the opening pitches are factored in.

In mid-February, Marín finished the final, hardest piece of the puzzle by redpointing the 5.15a crux-pitch which he dubbed “Odyn’s Crack.”


Video of Marín sending the crux 5.15a pitch, Odyn’s Crack


After that, the only thing left to do was send every pitch consecutively in a ground-up push.

Supported by his father, Novato, and brother, Alex, Marín started up from the back of the Great Arch on the evening of March 19. At 4:00 am on March 20, just nine hours after he began climbing, he completed the first full redpoint of Valhalla.

He described the moment of finishing on Instagram as a “special feeling: sunshine, wind, no expectations nor pressure, just training. … Exhausted right now, but happy: frustrations, cryings, joy, fails, travels, pressure, difficulties… But WE did it today!”

1 Comment threads
0 Thread replies
Most reacted comment
Hottest comment thread
1 Comment authors
Ryan J Mcdermott Recent comment authors
newest oldest most voted
Notify of
Ryan J Mcdermott
Ryan J Mcdermott

This has to be the greatest feat in sport climbing history. Has anybody redpointed so many pitches of 5.13+ and 5.14 in a day, plus a .15a?? Incredible. And what an amazing feature to do it on.

Tenth Ascent of the "Slovak Direct" on Denali

Marc Toralles and Bru Busom’s trip report from their ascent of the one of North American alpinism’s most coveted routes.

read more

Angy Eiter Bags Another 5.14d with "Pure Dreaming"

Eiter was the first and still only woman to climb a 5.15b.

read more