Edu Marin Frees “Valhalla,” Longest (304 Meters) and Hardest (5.15a) Roof in the World

That’s a loooooong and haaaard roof.

By Rock and Ice | March 20th, 2019

Edu Marín can finally stop climbing upside down: After six months of effort, he has freed Valhalla, his behemoth 304-meter roof project in the Great Arch, Getu, China.

Marín reported on Instagram, “TODAY, WE HAVE CLIMBED VALHALLA!”

 

[Also Watch VIDEO: Alex Honnold & Felipe Camargo Attempt Corazón de Ensueño (5.14b) in Getu’s Great Arch]

 

Previously, Marín had redpointed all of the pitches individually. The route consists of 14 pitches rated, in order: 7b+ (5.12a), 7a (5.11d), 8a+ (5.13c), 7c+ (5.13a), 9a+, 8b+ (5.14a), 8a (5.13b), 8c+ (5.14c), 8a+ (5.13c), 8b (5.13d), 8a+(5.13c), 8c+ (5.14c), 8a+ (5.13c), 8a+ (5.13c). The first four pitches ascend the vertical wall to reach the roof, and the rest of the pitches climb the horizontal roof, to a shorter, still severely overhanging headwall at the cave’s entrance. While the roof spans some 304 horizontal meters, in total the route covers over 450 meters of terrain when the opening pitches are factored in.

In mid-February, Marín finished the final, hardest piece of the puzzle by redpointing the 5.15a crux-pitch which he dubbed “Odyn’s Crack.”

 

Video of Marín sending the crux 5.15a pitch, Odyn’s Crack

 

After that, the only thing left to do was send every pitch consecutively in a ground-up push.

Supported by his father, Novato, and brother, Alex, Marín started up from the back of the Great Arch on the evening of March 19. At 4:00 am on March 20, just nine hours after he began climbing, he completed the first full redpoint of Valhalla.

He described the moment of finishing on Instagram as a “special feeling: sunshine, wind, no expectations nor pressure, just training. … Exhausted right now, but happy: frustrations, cryings, joy, fails, travels, pressure, difficulties… But WE did it today!”

avatar
1 Comment threads
0 Thread replies
0 Followers
 
Most reacted comment
Hottest comment thread
1 Comment authors
Ryan J Mcdermott Recent comment authors
  Subscribe  
newest oldest most voted
Notify of
Ryan J Mcdermott
Guest
Ryan J Mcdermott

This has to be the greatest feat in sport climbing history. Has anybody redpointed so many pitches of 5.13+ and 5.14 in a day, plus a .15a?? Incredible. And what an amazing feature to do it on.

Triage in the Time of Coronavirus: A Climbing Guide’s Perspective

Roddy McCalley, a climbing guide in Joshua Tree National Park, shares thoughts on helping those who need it most during the pandemic.

read more

Remembering Nolan Smythe

Aaron Livingston and Savannah Cummins share memories of the late Nolan Smythe.

read more

“Searching for Adolfo,” A Decades-old Disappearance of Two Climbers On Aconcagua May Be Solved

March 2019 article prompted a report of bodies high on the South Face, one matching the description of missing climber Adolfo Benegas.

read more