Angy Eiter Bags Another 5.14d with “Pure Dreaming”

Eiter was the first and still only woman to climb a 5.15b.

By Rock and Ice | June 11th, 2019

When she sent La Planta de Shiva on October 22, 2017, Angela “Angy” Eiter made history as the first women to climb 9b (5.15b). Two years later, she is still gunning for big grades and getting it done—last week the 33-year-old Austrian redpointed Pure Dreaming, a 9a (5.14d) at Massone, Arco, Italy.

 

[Also Read Angy Eiter Becomes First Woman to Climb 5.15b]

 

“Two weeks ago, I tried an incredible line in Arco, Massone “Pure Dreaming,” 9a, freed by [Adam Ondra],” Eiter wrote on Instagram. “I was surprised that there was still room to include an independent route through this crazy overhanging roof. I was smiling of stoke. However, it rained a lot and the wall was wet. So I returned last week for five day together with my husband [Bernie Ruech]. Although it was quite hot this time and conditions were not perfect, it was ok to climb. I checked the moves out again, seeing progress. Four times I felt at the last hard moves, wondering if I can still go on for it on my last day, where tiredness and warm temperatures challenged me. Motivation quotes were low first, but then I really wanted to give it another try. Unexpected, I tackled this beauty on my last day, on my last possible try.”

 

View this post on Instagram

Due settimane fa ho provato una linea stupende in Arco nel Pueblo, Massone „Pure Dreaming, 9a“, liberato da @adam.ondra. Non ho pensato che ci sono ancora le possibilità di aggiunere tiri indipendenti attraverso al tetto molto strapiombante. Mi l´ha piaciuta, ma purtroppo, ha piovuto molto e la roccia era bagnata. Percio sono andata un’altra volta ad Arco con il mio marito @bernieruech per cinque giorni. Nonostante il tempo era troppo caldo e le condizioni non sono state perfette, era ok per arrampicare. L’ho provato alcune volte e sono cadutto quattro volte alle ultime movimenti duri. Percio, al ultimo giorno sono stata molto stanca e non ho pensato più di avere una chance di realizzare questa linea. Ma l’ho provata ancora e inaspetttato ho realizzato questa linea al ultimo giorno al ultimo tentativo. Grazie @69.nemo per chiodare questa linea. Two weeks ago, I tried an incredible line in Arco, Massone „Pure Dreaming, 9a“, freed by @adam.ondra . I was surprised that there was still room to include an independent route through this crazy overhanging roof. I was smiling of stoke. However, it rained a lot and the wall was wet. So I returned last week for five day together with my husband @bernieruech . Although it was quite hot this time and conditions were not perfect, it was ok to climb. I checked the moves out again, seeing progress. Four times I felt at the last hard moves, wondering if I can still go on for it on my last day, where tiredness and warm temperatures challenged me. Motivation quotes were low first, but then I really wanted to give it another try. Unexpected, I tackled this beauty on my last day, on my last possible try. Thanks @69.nemo for bolting this line. 📸 @bernieruech #verleihtflügel #jedentagtirol @ferienregionimst @lasportivagram @team_edelrid #staymotivated #climbing #outdoors #socialmedia #balance #emotion #nature #outdoorwoman #lifestyle #fitness #vital #gesundheit #training #klettern #bouldering #bouldern

A post shared by Angy Eiter (@angyeiter) on

 

Pure Dreaming is Eiter’s fifth route 9a or harder. Her other sends in the ninth grade include Hades (9a), Götterwandl, Austria, in 2014Big Hammer, Pinswang, Ausria, also in 2014; Era Vella, Margalef, Spain, in 2015; and the aforementioned La Planta de Shiva (9b), Villanueva del Rosario, Spain, in 2017.

Ondra established Pure Dreaming in February 2018 as a variation to the preexisting Reini’s Vibes (8c/5.14b).  It has been repeated by Jakub Konecny, Stefano Ghisolfi, Eric Albertini, Silvio Reffo and Davide Picco. The very same day that Ondra made the first ascent of Pure Dreaming, he also made the first ascent of a line he named Underground Dreaming (9a+/5.15a), which links the start of Underground (9a) into the finish of Pure Dreaming.

 


Watch Eiter Climb Hades (9a/5.14d), Götterwandl, Austria

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