Alex Megos Fires Action Directe (5.14d) in Two Hours

Yep, you read that title right. A mere two hours….

By Ryan Gannaway | May 6th, 2014

Alex Megos. Photo by Duane Raleigh.
Alex Megos. Photo: Duane Raleigh.

Alex Megos has climbed the famous Action Directe (5.14d) in an astonishing two hours—the fastest ascent yet. Action Directe, established by Wolfgang Gullich in 1991 in the Frankenjura, Germany, is arguably the best-known sport climb in the world, and was the first 9a (5.14d). Megos climbed it April 26.

In the 23 years since the route went up, only 16 climbers have sent it. Those include Adam Ondra in 2008, Dai Koyamada in 2005 and Dave Graham, who was one of the only climbers not to train specifically for the climb, in 2001. The route is incredibly powerful and tweaky, with technical dynos and one-finger pockets.

Megos, 20 and from Erlangen, Germany, is one of today’s brightest climbing talents. In April of 2013, Megos onsighted Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain, becoming the first climber in the world to onsight 5.14d. Elsewhere in 2013, Megos made history by establishing Australia’s first 5.14d, Retired Extremely Dangerous, in the Blue Mountains. Megos has also climbed the endurance problem Wheel of Life (V15) in the Grampians of Australia and Classified (5.15a) in the Frankenjura.


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