Alan Arnette: Winter K2 Update | Summit Push in a Few Hours!

The historic first winter summit of K2 may happen on Saturday, January 16, 2021, by an all Nepali team.

By Alan Arnette | January 15th, 2021

Above high camp, around 8,000 meters, climbing toward the summit of K2 in 2014. Photo: Alan Arnette.


The historic first winter summit of K2 may happen on Saturday, January 16, 2021, by an all Nepali team. K2 is the last of the 14 8,000-meter peaks that has not been summited in winter.

The team’s plan is to leave high camp around 1:00 am on Saturday morning and summit about 12 hours later. Of course a lot depends on snow and wind conditions. It will be cold, with wind chills hovering around -55 degrees Celsicus (-67 degrees Fahrenheit). They will be installing fixed ropes as they climb, so that later teams will be able to move faster. At least one member of the team, Migma G, is climbing without supplemental oxygen. He could be the first to summit K2 in the winter with no Os.


[Read the Previous K2 Winter Update: Camp 2 Destroyed. Expeditions in Jeopardy]


With the fixed ropes set to 7,800 meters, the team will leave Camp 4 (near 7,600 meters) for the summit. The team of ten includes:


Nims’ Team

Nirmal Purja Pun Magar aka Nimsdai

Gelje Sherpa

Mingma David Sherpa

Mingma Tenzi Sherpa

Dawa Temba Sherpa

Pem Chhiri Sherpa


Mingma G’s Team

Mingma G

— Kilu Pemba Sherpa

— Dawa Tenjing Sherpa


SST Sherpa

— Sona Sherpa


Nims will lead the summit team and has suggested there will be no one person claiming the summit but rather a team summit on behalf of Nepal. This has been Mingma G.’s plan all along with his Sherpa-only team.

Nims’ summit team is also made up of only Sherpa. One Sherpa from Seven Summits Treks is also on the summit push.

Both gentlemen, Mingma and Nims, have expressed a deep desire to show the world that Nepalis are just as credible climbers as any other nationality on the planet.


Alan Arnette is a speaker, mountaineer and Alzheimer’s Advocate. He has completed over 30 major expeditions including four Everest climbs, with a summit in 2011, and a summit of K2 in 2014. He completed his 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s project to raise awareness and funds for Alzheimer’s research. Find out more at


Also Read


K2 in Winter: Can It Ever Be Done?


Also Watch


VIDEO: K2 And The Invisible Footmen

Notify of
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments

Members Have More Fun

Rock and Ice’s parent company acquires Outside magazine, Outside TV, Gaia GPS, athleteReg, and Peloton Magazine, boosting the depth and diversity of storytelling and services in our Active Pass membership.

read more

Lonnie Dupre Heading North for Fifth Attempt on Begguya (Mt. Hunter)

Lonnie Dupre, the polar explorer and mountaineer, is attempting the first winter ascent of Begguya’s southern summit with longtime partner Pascale Marceau.

read more

Tenzing Norgay Biography to Become Netflix Film

An Ed Douglas biography Tenzing Norgay is slated to be adapted for the screen by Netflix, and to be produced by the Obamas’ Higher Ground Productions.

read more