Sure, climbers can wear black tie
The annual black tie dinner at the New York Section of the American Alpine Club is perennially sold out, and for good reason: the august and elegant setting
of the Union Club, the chance to catch up with old friends, and the high quality of the speakers.
And this year’s 31st annual dinner was still black tie, the setting as elegant as ever, the speakers just as inspiring.
But there was a break in tradition. Instead of the usual format of one speaker, there was a panoply of three speakers, convened in honor of the unique phenomenon of energy, vision and optimism that is Dick Bass.
In 1985 at the age of 55, Dick Bass summitted Everest and became the first person to climb what has become known as the “Seven Summits.” Dick’s achievement was extraordinary , and not just that he was a complete neophyte when he started his quest, made it to the top and down, and also that along with his friend and climbing partner, Frank Wells (who died in a helicopter crash in 1994), he was the first to envision the concept of the Seven Summits. Dick’s achievement was of the indomitable human spirit. Given his age and complete lack of mountaineering background, it didn’t make sense that he would succeed on Everest when so many fail. But as Bass puts it, “Where the mind goes, the body will follow.”
Phil Ershler led off the gentle-spirited roast, recounting his personal and extremely moving summit of Everest, which included leaving mementos on the top from Chris Kerrebrock and Marty Hoey, two climbing friends who died in the mountains.
Next up as a speaker was Everest summiteer Bo Parfet, and then David Breashears, who had been with Dick on Everest. Often forgotten, as David Breashears reminded us, back in 1985, there were no fixed ropes on Everest above the South Col. For most of the mountain, the two men climbed unroped.
David was supposedly Dick's guide, but as David pointed out, in reality Dick was climbing by himself…and that included making his way through the Ice Fall as well as the dizzyingly exposed South Ridge, where Dick had to kick steps on his own without the psychological or literal help of fixed ropes.
As David summed up his deep feelings about Dick, “You’re about an idea, conviction, and determination. That’s a better legacy for you than climbing the Seven Summits.”
Last to take the podium was Dick himself, who recounted the now well-known stories of his experiences leading up to Everest, particularly the spurring influence of the young climber Marty Hoey, who had worked for Dick at Snowbird, guided him on his early climbs, and perished on Everest in 1982.
The evening also included Phil Erard’s traditional introduction of new American Alpine Club members and recognition of 50+-year members such as Fred Golomb and Sam Silverstein. The speaking appetizer was provided by Vic Benes, using his dry and understated wit to describe his ascent with Ron Bixby of Shuksan and Forbidden Peak in the Cascades.
But when you come down to it, this was, after all, the New York Section of the American Alpine Club…which means you never know about the mild-mannered man or woman sitting next to you.
—Susan E.B. Schwartz
Last Updated (Thursday, 18 November 2010 08:20)









