Shauna Coxsey Triumphs, Tomoa Narasaki Shocks at Chongqing World Cup

Shauna Coxsey battled Akiyo Noguchi for first place as the 2016 IFSC Boulder World Cup returned to Chongqing, China, for the third event of the season. Tomoa Narasaki shocked 2015’s first and second place finishers, Jan Hojer and Jongwon Chon, in another unpredictable finish in the men's division.

By Rock and Ice | May 2nd, 2016

Shauna Coxsey battled Akiyo Noguchi for first place as the 2016 IFSC Boulder World Cup returned to Chongqing, China, for the third event of the season. Tomoa Narasaki shocked 2015’s first and second place finishers, Jan Hojer and Jongwon Chon, in another unpredictable finish in the men’s division.

Coxsey nabbed first place in Chongqing, earning 100 points and raising her total to a perfect 300. Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi returned to her 2015 form and took second, earning 80 points and bringing her total to 147 points. Japan’s Miho Nonaka once again earned 65 points for third, growing her total to 154 points.

Shauna Coxsey on her way to her third consecutive first-place finish. Photo: IFSC/Александра Кузнецова

Coxsey and Noguchi finished semifinals in close competition for first place. In finals, Coxsey topped out three problems, taking seven attempts, while Noguchi finished three problems on 12 attempts. Miho Nonaka finished one, but in three attempts.

Coxsey claimed first in both previous events, Meiringen and Kazo. Noguchi finished 20th in Kazo, but Chongqing raised her to fourth for 2016. Nonaka ended 2015 ranked first.

Nonaka’s third place finishes in Chongqing and Kazo have moved her up to third place in the World Cup Bouldering rankings. She finished third overall in 2015.

The men’s final once again brought new climbers to the podium. Japan’s Tomoa Narasaki won first place, followed by Jan Hojer of Germany and Jongwon Chon of South Korea.

Japan’s Mens Team hangs out at the Chongqing World Cup Bouldering event. Photo: IFSC/Александра Кузнецова

Narasaki, who finished 30th overall last year, earned 100 points for his first place finish and is now ranked fifth with 138 points. Hojer and Jongwon’s second and third-place finishes raised their 2016 rankings to fourth and 14th.

Hojer finished second overall in 2015, and is currently ranked first in the world. Jongwon finished first overall in 2015 and is currently ranked second in the world.

In the finals, Narasaki finished three of four problems in eight attempts, Hojer finished two problems in three attempts, and Jongwon finished two problems in five attempts.

As in Kazo and Meiringen, many American climbers did not compete in Chongqing. Sierra Blair-Coyle was the USA’s only representative. Blair-Coyle finished 12th, raising her to 22nd overall for 2016. She finished 2015 in 30th and is currently ranked 23rd in the world.

The next World Cup Bouldering competition is in Navi Mumbai, India, May 14-15. Check back for live streaming and results.

 

RESULTS (Finals)

 

Women 

1. Shauna Coxsey (GBR): Finals – (3t7 4b8)
2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN): Finals – (3t12 4b13)
3. Miho Nonaka (JPN): Finals – (1t3 2b4)
4. Mei Kotake (JPN): Finals – (1t6 2b6)
5. Karoline Sinnhuber (AUT): Finals – (0t 2b5)
6. Monika Retschy (GER): Finals – (0t 2b6)

12. Sierra Blair-Coyle (USA): Semifinals – (1t1 2b2)
 

Click here for complete WOMEN’S RESULTS.

Men

1. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN): Finals – (3t8 3b4)
2. Jan Hojer (GER): Finals – (2t3 4b13)
3. Jongwon Chon (KOR): Finals – (2t5 4b15)
4. Kokoro Fujii (JPN): Finals – (2t13 4b13)
5. Alexey Rubtsov (RUS): Finals – (1t8 3b6)
6. Jorg Verhoeven (NED): Finals – (0t 2b2)

Click here for complete MEN’S RESULTS.

 

Watch the Mens and Womens Finals: 

 

Cover photo: IFSC/Александра Кузнецова

 

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