Shauna Coxsey Dominates at Kazo World Cup

The 2016 IFSC Boulder World Cup returned to Kazo, Japan, this weekend for the second event of the season. Shauna Coxsey and Melissa Le Nevé kept their spots atop the podium while the men’s competition once again surprised.

By Rock and Ice | April 25th, 2016

Shauna Coxsey and Melissa Le Nevé kept their spots atop the podium as the 2016 IFSC Boulder World Cup returned to Kazo, Japan, for the second event of the season. Rustam Gelmanov topped the podium in another unpredictable finish in the men’s division.

“Another first place! So so happy,” the British climber Shauna Coxsey wrote on Instagram. Coxsey dominated in Kazo, earning 100 points and raising her total to 200. Melissa LeShauna Coxsey on her way to finals. Photo: Eddie Fowke / IFSC. Nevé of France once again took second, earning 80 points and bringing her total to 160 points. Miho Nonaka of Japan earned 65 points for third, growing her total to 89 points.

In finals, Coxsey won decisively, the only woman to top out all four problems, taking seven attempts. Le Nevé completed two problems in two attempts, and Nonaka similarly finished two but in three attempts.

Coxsey and La Nevé had finished first and second on April 16 in Meiringen, Switzerland. Nonaka finished 14th in Meiringen. Her finish in Kazo moved her up to fourth place in the World Cup Bouldering rankings. She finished third overall in 2015 and is currently ranked third in the world.

Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi finished 20th in Kazo. Noguchi ended 2015 ranked first, but a fourth place in Meiringen and this weekend’s disappointing finish dropped her to ninth overall.

The men’s final was a surprise once again. Russia’s Rustam Gelmanov nabbed first place, followed by Michael Piccolruaz of Italy and Kokoro Fujii of Japan. Gelmanov, who finished sixth overall last year, earned 100 points for his first place finish and is now ranked first with 128 total points. Piccolruaz and Fujii’s second and third-place finishes raised their 2016 rankings to sixth and third. The three podium toppers in Meiringen—Alexey Rubtsov, Martin Stranik, and Jorg Verhoeven—finished in 13th, 20th and 28th in Kazo.

Rustam Gelmanov locking down first place in Kazo. Photo: Eddie Fowke / IFSC.

In the finals, Gelmanov finished three of four problems in three attempts, Piccolruaz finished two problems in two attempts, and Fujii finished two problems in four attempts.

As in Meiringen, many American climbers did not compete in Kazo. Peter Erard was the only representative in the men’s division and finished 68th. In the women’s division, Sierra Blair-Coyle placed 21st and Juliana Price placed 52nd.

The next World Cup Bouldering competition is in Chongqing, China, April 30-May 1. Check back for live streaming and results.


RESULTS (Finals)



1. Shauna Coxsey (GBR): Finals – (4t7 4b7)
2. Melissa Le Nevé (FRA): Finals – (2t2 4b5)
3. Miho Nonaka (JPN): Finals – (2t3 4b6)
4. Petra Klingler (SUI): Finals – (2t3 3b4)
5. Fanny Gibert (FRA): Finals – (1t1 2b4)
6. Chloé Caulier (BEL): Finals – (1t3 3b8)

Click here for complete WOMEN’S RESULTS.


1. Rustam Gelmanov (RUS): Finals – (3t3 4b4)
2. Michael Piccolruaz (ITA): Finals – (2t2 4b8)
3. Kokoro Fujii (JPN): Finals – (2t4 4b8)
4. Jeremy Bonder (FRA): Finals – (2t8 4b12)
5. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS): Finals – (1t2 3b8)
6. Rolands Rugens (GBR): Finals – (0t 1b2)

Click here for complete MEN’S RESULTS.

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