Sarah Hueniken First North American Woman to Send M14Canadian climber Sarah Hueniken has made the fourth ascent of The Mustang P-51 (M14-) in The Fang Amphitheater, East Vail, Colorado. Hueniken is the first North American woman to climb M14.
Canadian climber Sarah Hueniken has made the fourth ascent of The Mustang P-51 (M14-) in The Fang Amphitheater, East Vail, Colorado. Hueniken is the first North American woman to climb M14.
“Despite sickness, travel, and some other battles Sarah Hueniken sent the P 51 Mustang at last light today. First female ascent, only a handful ever, and she had gas left at the end!” Will Gadd reported on Instagram. Gadd claimed the third ascent of the 60-meter mixed route the day before, belayed by Hueniken.
The Mustang P-51, established by Will Mayo, starts on the Seventh Tentacle (WI5 M6, Jeff Lowe 1994), behind The Fang, and moves right into the 30-meter horizontal roof traverse of Gadd’s Reptile. The route ends at a ledge and single bolt anchor above The Flying Fortress (M13).
No reports as to whether or not Hueniken took the 60-foot victory whip, keeping tradition with Gadd and Kwon Young-Hye, who made the route’s first repeat last December.
Hueniken is also the first North American woman to climb M11 and M12. She has established first ascents around the world, from the unclimbed peak Schacun (5.10+ M5 19,570 feet) in Western China to the ice routes Perseverance and La Vagane in Iceland and Gurrls Day Off (WI5), O’Hara region, Canadian Rockies.
She currently lives in Canmore, Alberta and guides year round.
Lucie Hrozova, of the Czech Republic, became the first female to climb M14 when she sent Ironman in Eptigen, Switzerland on February 4, 2013.
Watch Will Gadd Send The Mustang P-51 (M14-):
Video by Will Mayo. [Cover photo: screen-shot from video]
Follow Sarah Hueniken on Instagram @huens
Ryan Johnson, 34, died in the Mendenhall Towers, outside Juneau, Alaska, sometime in the days following March 5, 2018. He had just completed a first ascent on the North Face of the Main Tower with his partner, Marc-André Leclerc, who also died on the descent. Below, Samuel Johnson (unrelated) remembers his close friend and partner Ryan—his achievements, his passion, his warmth, his kindness.read more
Warm conditions put an interesting spin on the speed comp, but the 32 athletes at the Championships made the most of it.read more
“I was completely detached from the world below. There was nothing but climbing. No goal, no future, no past. I was climbing in the here and now. One swing of the ice axe after the other, one step after the other.”read more