K2 Remains Unclimbed in Winter: Polish Expedition Calls it Quits

The end of the Polish expedition concludes the attempts on 8,000ers for the 2017-2018 winter season.

By Rock and Ice | March 5th, 2018

View of K2 from the Base Camp of the Polish Expedition. Photo: Adam Bielecki.


While the winter climbing season in the Himalaya and the Karakoram was not without drama, it came to a frustrating close for both expeditions still hoping to eke out their original goals. Last week, the Spaniard Alex Txikon abandoned his efforts to climb Everest in winter, and today came word that the Polish K2 expedition— which sought to make the first winter ascent of the only 8,000-meter peak still unclimbed in winter—was curtailing operations.

On the Polish Winter Himalaism Facebook Page the expedition leader Krzysztof Wielicki announced, “Based on a deep analysis of the situation in agreement with the team I decided today to end the mountain action on K2.”

Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb’s report from their final reconnaissance up the Abruzzi Spur—the route via which the team hoped to reach the summit—was disheartening. Though the expedition had already established Camps 1, 2 and 3 along the route, and though Bielecki had been up to 7,400 meters on a previous outing, conditions were extremely poor.  After more than 80 inches of snow kept all the climbers tent bound in Base Camp for the previous eight days, Wielicki wrote, “It turns out that on the road to C1 all ropes are blocked [likely buried or frozen in ice], the tent at the base is damaged, there is also a high likelihood of destruction of C1, C2 and C3.”

Between poor conditions on the route, high avalanche danger on the upper snow slopes, and only a short weather window on the horizon around March 11, the decision to call it a day was the most prudent.  “The priority of the expedition is the safety of the participants,” Wielicki concluded, and the objective dangers on the mountain combined with pressure of trying to force a summit before the end of winter would have compromised that priority.

Bielecki said that the Polish climbers should be home in about 15 days—more information about the expedition sure to come then.

The K2 expedition was the last of the three major winter 8,000er expeditions this year. At the end of January, Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz made the second-ever winter ascent of Nanga Parbat before things turned disastrous. Mackiewicz became snowblind and hypoxic. Revol left him at 7,280 meters. She was rescued two days later by members of the K2 expedition, Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko. Mackiewicz died on the mountain. The third winter expedition was Alex Txikon and the Pakistani Ali Sadpara’s on Everest. On February 28, Txikon reported on Facebook, “After a great deal of thought and doing everything in our power to pursue our dream, we complete the expedition of 2018 to the winter Everest without artificial oxygen. It’s not easy moments, but I know it’s the best decision.”


Also read Urubko Goes Rogue On Winter K2 Expedition

Leave a Reply

Notify of

Remembering Ryan Johnson: A Visionary and a Dreamer

Ryan Johnson, 34, died in the Mendenhall Towers, outside Juneau, Alaska, sometime in the days following March 5, 2018. He had just completed a first ascent on the North Face of the Main Tower with his partner, Marc-André Leclerc, who also died on the descent. Below, Samuel Johnson (unrelated) remembers his close friend and partner Ryan—his achievements, his passion, his warmth, his kindness.

read more

Coloradans Dominate at 2018 North American Ice Climbing Championships

Warm conditions put an interesting spin on the speed comp, but the 32 athletes at the Championships made the most of it.

read more

Ueli Steck on Launching into the Void on Annapurna’s South Face

“I was completely detached from the world below. There was nothing but climbing. No goal, no future, no past. I was climbing in the here and now. One swing of the ice axe after the other, one step after the other.”

read more