Japan Triumphs at Bouldering World Cup in Navi Mumbai

Results from the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Navi, Mumbai, India.

By Rock and Ice | May 16th, 2016

Photo: Eddie Fowke / IFSC. The first IFSC Bouldering World Cup ever held in Navi Mumbai, India saw many surprises—from first-time victors to podium regulars who were bumped out early on.

Kokoro Fujii and Miho Nonaka, both competitors from Japan, took home the gold for men and for women. It was Fujii’s and Nonaka’s first bouldering world cup win. Fujii placed fourth for men and Nonaka placed third for women two weeks ago at the bouldering world cup event in Chongquing, China.

In finals, which took place this Sunday, Nonaka topped out two of four problems in four attempts and reached the bonus hold on three problems in six attempts. She was the only female competitor to finish two finals’ problems. In second place, Monika Retschy, of Germany, flashed one problem and reached all four bonus holds in 10 attempts. Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi and France’s Melissa Le Nevé tied in finals with one flash and two bonus holds in two tries, but Noguchi placed ahead because of her semi-finals performance. Sol Sa, of Korea, and Katharina Saurwein, of Austria, rounded out finals with fifth and sixth place finishes.

On the men’s side, Fujii finished three of four problems in four attempts and reached all four bonus holds in an the same number of attempts. He took first over his countryman Tomoa Narasaki who took two more tries to topout three problems and three more tries to reach the four bonus holds.Alexey Rubtsov, of Russia, placed third with three topouts and four bonus holds in 11 attempts. Jongwon Chon, of Korea, finished three in 17 tries and reached all bonus holds in 19. Russia’s Rustam Gelmanov placed fifth with one topout in three attempts and three bonus holds in five attempts, and France’s Jeremy Bonder placed sixth, who reached two bonus holds in four tries.

Lisa Chulich was the top women’s finisher for the United States. She qualified for semi-finals and landed 18th overall. Sarah Pearce, the only other female U.S. competitor came in 27th. Peter Erard, the one and only male competitor representing the U.S., placed 39th.

For the first time this season, after first-place finishes at the last two bouldering world cups in Chongquing, China and Kazo, Japan, Great Britian’s Shauna Coxsey missed finals. In the semi-final round—consisting of the top 20 finishers from qualifiers—she only managed to top out one of four boulder problems, which landed her in ninth place overall. The top six competitors from semi-finals moved on to finals.

Photo: Eddie Fowke / IFSC.Despite the outcome, Coxsey maintains a strong lead in the overall bouldering world cup ranking with 337 world cup points, ahead of Le Nevé in second with 258 points and Nonaka who climbed into third with 254 points.

German strongman Jan Hojer was another Navi Mumbai surprise. He too missed finals, a rare occurrence, and placed 18th overall. Hojer is currently fifth in the overall men’s bouldering world cup ranking, behind Gelmanov in fourth, Narasaki in third, Rubtsov in second and Fujii now in first with a 13-point lead.

In the National Team Ranking at Navi Mumbai, Japan took first with 412 points, followed by France in second with 185 points and Germany in third with 120 points. Austria, not far behind, and Russia rounded out the top five teams with 119 and 116 points. The U.S. came in 12th out of 19 nations that were present at the competition.

Overall this season, Japan is first in the National Team Ranking with 793 points, followed by France with 712 points and Great Britain with 612 points. The U.S. is 13th overall with 119 points.

The next and second to last IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the year will take place on May 20 – 21 in Innsbruck, Austria. Check back for live streaming and results.


RESULTS – Navi Mumbai


Women – Finals (Top 6)                             Men – Finals (Top 6)

1) Miho Nonaka (JPN), 2t4 3b6                                    1) Kokoro Fujii (JPN), 3t4 4b4

2) Monika Retschy (GER), 1t1 4b10                             2) Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), 3t6 4b7

3) Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), 1t1 2b2                                  3) Alexey Rubtsov (RUS), 3t11 4b11

4) Melissa Le Nevé (FRA), 1t1 2b2                              4) Jongwon Chon (KOR), 3t17, 4b19

5) Sol Sa (KOR), 1t1 2b6                                             5) Rustam Gelmanov (RUS), 1t3 3b5

6) Katharina Saurwein (AUT), 0t 2b7                           6) Jeremy Bonder (FRA), 0t 2b4

Click here for full WOMEN’S RESULTS                     Click here for full MEN’S RESULTS


Video highlights:


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Shauna Coxsey Triumphs, Tomoa Narasaki Shocks at Chongqing World Cup

Shauna Coxsey Dominates at Kazo World Cup

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