Ghisolfi and Garnbret Seize Golds at World Cup in Xiamen, China

At the penultimate World Cup event of the 2016 season, held in Xiamen, China, Stefano Ghisolfi and Janja Garnbret won the men's and women's lead competitions, each of them beating out a stacked field of strong climbers.

By Rock and Ice | October 24th, 2016

In the second-to-last IFSC World Cup event of the year, held in Xiamen, China this weekend, Stefano Ghisolfi and Janja Garnbret won the men’s and women’s lead competitions in decisive fashion. Ghisolfi, from Italy, wrote on Instagram, “No words to describe it, even if [it] is not my [first] victory this is my best competition ever!”

Slovenian climber Rebeka Kamin, pictured here at the 2016 IFSC World Climbing Championships. Photo: Sytse van Slooten/IFSC.The event in Xiamen was the sixth IFSC lead World Cup event of the season. Located on the Chinese coast just a stone’s throw from Taiwan, Xiamen provided a lively, albeit humid, location for the competition.

Ghisolf, with finals’ score of 39, held his lead over Dmitrii Fakiryanov (RUS) and Jakob Schubert (AUT), who both finished with a 37+. Despite reaching the same high point on the finals route, Fakiryanov earned second place over Schubert based on a better semi-finals result. 

With his performance in Xiamen, Ghisolfi is well-positioned heading into the final World Cup of the year, to be held November 26 to 27 in Kranj, Slovenia. He wrote on Instagram, “With this victory I’m running for the podium of the overall ranking of [the] lead world cup!”

As of October 22, Ghisolfi sits in fourth place in the overall lead world cup rankings. Domen Skofic (SLO) is currently in first, followed by Schubert and Romain Desgranges (FRA).

On the women’s side, Garnbret, from Slovenia, won with a score of 42+, ahead of Anak Verhoeven (BEL) and Jain Kim (KOR), who each finished with a score of 40+. Their podium results in Xiamen perfectly mirror their current positions in the overall World Cup standings—Garnbret resides in first, followed by Verhoeven and Kim in second and third, respectively.

Garnbret has dominated the World Cup circuit so far this season. In addition to her victory in Xiamen, Garnbret collected first-place finishes at World Cup events in Arco, Italy; Briançon, France; Villars, Switzerland; and Chamonix, France. Furthermore, she took home gold at the 2016 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Paris this past September.

In the speed climbing competition, Klaudia Buczek (POL) beat Luliia Kaplina (RUS) in the women’s final by a time of 8.65 seconds to Kaplina’s 9.66. Anna Tsyganova (RUS) and Anouck Jaubert (FRA) took third and fourth place, respectively.

Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) edged out Bassa Mawem (FRA) in the men’s speed final by the slimmest of margins, finishing with a time of 6.00 seconds, just one-one-hundredth of a second faster than the Frenchman’s 6.01 time. Qixin Zhong (CHN) came in third place, and Vladislav Deulin (RUS) finished in fourth.

The American climbers Kai Lightner and Nathan Price competed in the men’s lead competition, finishing in 30th and 36th place, respectively. Price recently appeared on the cover of Rock and Ice issue 237 (October 2016).

 

Watch the highlights:

 

Stefano Ghisolfi, pictured here competing at the 2016 IFSC World Climbing Chapmpionships, won the men’s lead competition in Xiamen, China. Photo: FFME/AgenceKros - Remi Fabregue. Results (Finals):

Men Lead

  1. Stefnao Ghisolfi (ITA) – 39
  2. Dmitrii Fakiryanov (RUS) – 37+
  3. Jakob Schubert (AUT) – 37+
  4. Gautier Supper (FRA) – 33+
  5. Romain Desgranges (FRA) – 32+
  6. Thomas Joannes (FRA) – 32
  7. Masahiro Higuchi (JPN) – 25+
  8. Hanwool Kim (KOR) – 11+

Women Lead

  1. Janja Garnbret (SLO) – 42+
  2. Anak Verhoeven (BEL) – 40+
  3. Jain Kim (KOR) – 40+
  4. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) – 36+
  5. Mina Markovic (SLO) – 35+
  6. Julia Chanourdie (FRA) – 33+
  7. Salomé Romain (FRA) – 29+
  8. Jessica Pilz (AUT) – 21+

Men Speed

  1. Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
  2. Bassa Mawem (FRA)
  3. Qixin Zhong (CHN)
  4. Vladislav Deulin (RUS)
  5. Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)
  6. Guillaume Moro (FRA)
  7. Quentin Nambot (FRA)
  8. Reza Alipourshena (IRI)

Women Speed

  1. Klaudia Buczek (POL)
  2. Luliia Kaplina (RUS)
  3. Anna Tsyganova (RUS)
  4. Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
  5. Elma Fleuret (FRA)
  6. Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL)
  7. Svetlana Motovilova (RUS)
  8. Aurelia Sarisson (FRA)

For the full list of results from all rounds, visit ifsc-climbing.org

 

Related Articles

Ondra Seizes Lead Championship, American Women Climb High

 

Cover photo: FFME/Jean-Luc RIGAUX.

Leave a Reply

Notify of
avatar
wpDiscuz

Interview: Keita Kurakami on Freeing the Nose

Rock and Ice caught up with the Japanese climber to talk about his free ascent of the Nose, in Yosemite, earlier this week.

read more

Dazzling New First Ascent on Cerro Kishtwar by Huber, Siegrist and Zankar

Located in the Indian Himalayas, in Kashmir, Cerro Kishtwar had been climbed three times prior, all via different routes. But until Stephan Siegrist, Thomas Huber and Julian Zankar no team had yet succeeded on the plumb-line directly up the northwest face.

read more

It goes (again): Keita Kurakami Makes Fifth Free Ascent of the Nose

The Japanese climber, known for bold traditional ascents in his own country, joins an elite club of climbers with his ascent.

read more