Coxsey, Narasaki Overall 2016 Bouldering World Cup ChampionsAfter the seventh and final IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the 2016 season in Munich, Germany, Shauna Coxsey and Tomoa Narasaki are crowned overall champions.
From Meiringen to Kazo, Chongqing to Navi Mumbai, Innsbruck to Vail, the 2016 IFSC Bouldering World Cup season has come to an end, finishing its seventh and final competition in Munich, Germany. Under the glass roof of Munich’s Olympic stadium last weekend, world cup competitors chalked up for one last show.
Tomoa Narasaki and Miho Nonaka, both from Japan, took home gold medals. Narasaki’s performance allowed him to slip ahead of teammate Kokoro Fujii to claim the overall bouldering world cup title. While the women’s overall champion—Great Britain’s Shauna Coxsey—was already determined after the Vail World Cup, second and third place were still up for grabs. Nonaka’s first place finish in Munich secured her a silver medal in the overall bouldering world cup rankings.
In finals, Nonaka topped three of four boulder problems in seven attempts, one more top than any other female competitor. Coxsey grabbed second place with two flashes and three bonus holds in three attempts—an equal performance to Akiyo Noguchi of Japan, but Coxsey’s score from semi-finals broke the tie and Noguchi took third, rounding out the podium. Mélissa Le Nevé, of France, took fourth; Stasa Gejo, of Serbia, came in fifth; and Slovenia climber Julija Kruder took sixth, completing the women’s finals field.
On the men’s side, Narasaki finished all four finals problems in six attempts. Korea’s Jongwon Chon completed three problems in five attempts for second place, ahead of Russia’s Alexey Rubtsov who flashed two, but couldn’t top the others. David Firnenburn of Germany took fourth; Mickael Mawem of France fifth; and Manuel Cornu, also of France, sixth.
Representing the United States of America, for women, Lisa Chulich tied with Karoline Sinnhuber of Austria for 37th place, and Delaney Miller came in 57th. For men, Martin Kuhnel tied with Yuval Shemla of Israel in 89th, and Denver La Mont and Christopher Smith landed in a three-way tie in 137th with Greek climber Georgios Bernidakis.
In the overall bouldering world cup rankings this season, Japan took three of six (men and women) podium places. Narasaki, in first with 462 points and Fujii, in second with 395 points, filled the upper stages of the men’s overall podium. Rubtsov came in third overall with 372 points, Chon in fourth with 270 points, and Russian climber Rustam Gelmanov fifth with 270 points, to name the top five men.
For women, Coxsey took first with 560 points—a significant lead over second place Nonaka with 446 points and Le Nevé with 368 points. Akiyo Noguchi, another Japanese climber, took fourth with 352 points and Monika Retschyof German fifth with 236 points to complete the top five.
For the U.S. of A, Megan Mascarenas ranked seventh overall with 220 points, not far behind the top five. Sierra Blair-Coyle came in 23rd, tied with Julija Kruder of Slovenia, SLO. Alex Puccio, with one world cup, took 28th overall. Margo Hayes landed 31, Kyra Condie 33, Lisa Culich 44, Michaela Kiersch 55, Molly Rennie 56, Lily Canavan 61, Emily Ziffer 65, and Sarah Pearce 66.
For U.S. men, Daniel Woods came in 43rd, Will Anglin 54th and Austin Geiman 66th overall. All three men only participated in one world cup bouldering competition this season.
The bouldering world cup season may be over, but lead and speed are in full swing. The next IFSC Lead World Cup will take place in Imst, Austria August 19-20. Check back for live streaming of semi-finals and finals, and for a recap and results.
Watch highlights from Munich:
RESULTS – Munich 2016
1. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), 4t6 4b5
2. Jongwon Chon (KOR), 3t5 3b3
3. Alexey Rubtsov (RUS), 2t2 3b8
4. David Firnenburn (GER), 2t3 3b3
5. Mickael Mawem (FRA), 1t2 4b8
6. Manuel Cornu (FRA), 1t3 4b9
Click here for complete MEN’S RESULTS
1. Miho Nonaka (JPN), 3t7 4b8
2. Shauna Coxsey (GBR), 2t2 3b3
3. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), 2t2 3b3
4.Mélissa Le Nevé (FRA), 2t3 3b4
5. Stasa Gejo (SRB), 1t2 3b3
6. Julija Kruder (SLO), 0t 3b10
Click here for complete WOMEN’S RESULTS
OVERALL RANKINGS – 2016
1. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), 462 points 1. Shauna Coxsey (GBR), 560 points
2. Kokoro Fujii (JPN), 395 points 2. Miho Nonaka (JPN), 446 points
3. Alexey Rubtsov (RUS), 372 points 3. Mélissa Le Nevé (FRA), 368 points
4. Jongwon Chon (JPN), 344 points 4. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), 352 points
5. Rustam Gelmanov (RUS), 270 points 5. Monika Retschy (GER), 236 points
6. Sean McColl (CAN), 244 points 6. Fanny Gibert (FRA), 223 points
7. Martin Stranik (CZE), 214 points 7. Megan Mascarenas (USA), 220 points
8. Jeremy Bonder (FRA), 205 points 8. Petra Klingler (SUI), 192 points
9. Jan Hojer (GER), 177 points 9. Clementine Kaiser (FRA), 175 points
10. Jernej Kruder (SLO), 169 points 10. Sol Sa (KOR), 171 points
Overall Team Rankings – 2016 (Top 10)
1. Japan – 1964 points
2. France – 1347 points
3. Great Britain – 1087 points
4. Russia – 779 points
5. Austria – 682 points
6. Germany – 588 points
7. Korea – 500 points
8. United States of America – 411 points
9. Canada – 402 points
10. Slovenia – 377 points
Sponsored article. The number of indoor climbing gyms has increased by 50% since 2007. One wall manufacturer, Walltopia, has seen its projects surge an average of 45% every year since 2012. This is why, in June 2018, Walltopia will host the first major global gathering for the climbing-gym industry.read more