Coxsey, Chon Win Innsbruck Bouldering World Cup

Great Britain’s Shauna Coxsey is back on top with her fourth IFSC Bouldering World Cup victory of the year after the competition in Innsbruck, Austria. Jonwong Chon, of Korea, placed first for men.

By Rock and Ice | May 25th, 2016

Jonwong Chon powers his way to victory at the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Innsbruck, Austria. Photo: Eddie Fowke / IFSC. Great Britain’s Shauna Coxsey is back on top with her fourth IFSC Bouldering World Cup victory of the year. Coxsey and Jonwong Chon, of Korea, took gold in Innsbruck, Austria.

Coxsey, who uncharacteristically missed finals at the last bouldering world cup in Navi Mumbai, almost missed the cut again, but she flashed the final semi-finals problem to tie home-crowd favorite Anna Stöhr. Both women snuck into finals in the last available spot.

Coxsey went on to top out all four finals problems in a total of eight tries, which landed her in first place ahead of Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret, who took 10 attempts to climb all four problems. The previous bouldering world cup’s champion Miho Nonaka, of Japan, rounded out the women’s podium after she climbed all four problems in 13 tries.

America’s own Megan Mascarenas took fourth place after flashing both the friction sphere-holds women’s problem number one and the technical women’s problem number two. Stöhr came in fifth place with two tops in 11 tries, Akiyo Noguchi sixth with one finish and Sol Sa seventh, to complete the women’s Finals field.

American climber Sierra Blaire-Coyle placed 25th, in a three-way tie with Alizée Dufraisse and Karoline Sinnhuber, just ahead of Lisa Chulich, also American, in 28th.

On the men’s side, Chon was the only competitor able to complete men’s problem number one. He powered his way through problem number two and flashed problem three for the win, three tops in four tries.

Tomoa Narasaki of Japan finished two of four finals problems in nine tries for second place. He also placed second at the in Navi Mumbai.

Canada’s Sean McColl held it together on problem number two, his only top in finals, to take third place, just ahead of Rolands Rugens of Latvia who also completed one problem in three tries, but who took eight attempts to reach two bonus holds when McColl only needed four.

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov, of Russia, placed fifth and Martin Stranik of the Czech Republic took sixth to round out men’s finals.

American men Austin Geiman placed 41, Josh Larson 65 and Christopher Smith 103.

On the women’s podium (from left to right), Janja Garnbret (second place), Shauna Coxsey (first) and Miho Nonaka (third). Photo: Eddie Fowke / IFSC.

Overall Rankings

With only two bouldering world cup left in the season, Coxsey holds a strong lead in the overall rankings with 437 points, ahead of Nonaka in second with 319 points and Melissa Le Nevé in third with 298. Mascarenas, the top overall female for the U.S. currently sits in 14th.

Narasaki holds a slight lead in the overall rankings for men with 298 points, ahead of his countryman Kokoro Fujii with 289 points and Russian Alexey Rubtsov with 262.

The second to last IFSC Bouldering World Cup event of the year will take place on in Vail, Colorado June 10 and 11, during the GoPro Mountain Games—the only climbing World Cup held on U.S. soil. Check back for live streaming and results.

Rock and Ice will be there! Stop by our booth by the climbing wall to say hello and grab some free magazines.



Women – Finals (Top 7)                             Men – Finals (Top 6)

1) Shauna Coxsey (GBR), 4t8 4b8                              1) Jongwon Chon (KOR), 3t4 3b4

2) Janja Garnbret (SLO), 4t10 4b9                              2) Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), 2t9 4b13

3) Miho Nonaka (JPN), 4t13 4b10                               3) Sean McColl (CAN), 1t3 2b4

4) Megan Mascarenas (USA), 2t2 3b3                        4) Rolands Rugens (LAT), 1t3, 2b8

5) Anna Stöhr (AUT), 2t11 4b8                                    5) Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS), 0t 2b10

6) Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), 1t3 2b2                                 6) Martin Stranik (CZE), 0t 0b

7) Sol Sa (KOR) , 0t 3b3

Click here for full WOMEN’S RESULTS                   Click here for full MEN’S RESULTS


Watch the highlights from Innsbruck:



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