Coxsey and Chon Victorious at 2017 Vail World Cup

Shauna Coxsey and Jongwon Chon take gold this weekend at the one-and-only IFSC Bouldering World Cup held on U.S. soil.

By Rock and Ice | June 12th, 2017

In front of a packed crowd this weekend in Vail, Colorado Shauna Coxsey of Great Britain and Jongwon Chon of South Korea topped the podium at the one-and-only IFSC Bouldering World Cup held on U.S. soil. For Coxsey, it was her third gold medal out of the five competitions so far this season, and 10th of her career.

Petra Klingler of Switzerland (left) and Shauna Coxsey of Great Britain battle it out in qualifiers at the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado this weekend. Photo: <a target=Tim Foote.” title=”Petra Klingler of Switzerland (left) and Shauna Coxsey of Great Britain battle it out in qualifiers at the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado this weekend. Photo: Tim Foote.” style=”float: right; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px;”>The world cup kicked off Friday during the GoPro Mountain Games with 59 men and 55 women in the qualifying round. The top 20 men and top 20 women moved on to semifinals held Saturday morning, and then the top six from each moved on to finals later that afternoon.

In finals, Coxsey secured first place with three tops in only four attempts, ahead of Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka, both of Japan, who topped three problems in six attempts and seven attempts, respectively. Coxsey also won the bouldering world cups in Nanjing, China and Meiringen, Switzerland earlier this season.

The U.S.’s own Alex Puccio took fourth place with three tops in 10 attempts. Katja Kadic of Slovenia came in fifth with one top in three attempts and Petra Klingler of Switzerland rounded out finals in sixth with zero tops and one bonus hold in two attempts.

On the men’s side, Chon dominated the field by topping all four finals problems—the only competitor to do so—in nine attempts. Meichi Narasaki of Japan took second with three tops in six attempts and Yoshiyuki Ogata of Japan rounded out the podium in third with three tops in 11 attempts. Russia’s Alexey Rubtsov took fourth with two tops in five attempts, and the Japanses climbers Kokoro Fujii and Keita Watabe completed finals with two tops in six attempts and one top in three attempts, respectively.

Team U.S.A. had a strong showing at the competition, and along with Puccio, Brooke Raboutou—for her first adult bouldering world cup—Megan Mascarenas, Meagan Martin and Lily Canavan all made it into the final round. Raboutou placed ninth overall, Mascarenas placed 15th, and Martin and Canavan came in a three-way tie with Leah Crane of Great Britain for 18th.

Also from the U.S., Carroll Chauncey and Kyra Condie placed 23rd, Grace McKeehan 25th, Maya Madere 27th, Victoria Perkins 35th, Sierra Blair-Coyle 37th, Lisa Chulich and Alexis Mascarenas in three-way tie with Allison Vest of Canada for 39th, Molly Rennie 42nd, Lila Neahring 43rd, Julianna Jimreivat 47th, Natalia Grossman and Audrey Miller 49th, and Isabel Gifford and Zoe Steinberg 51st.

On the men’s side, Sean Bailey was the only U.S. male climber to qualify for semifinals. He placed 11th overall. Following Bailey, from the U.S., Michael O’Rourke placed 23rd, Shawn Raboutou 25th, Nathaniel Coleman 29th, Kai Lightner 31st, Solomon Barth 33rd, Peter Dixon and Kyle Struthers came in a three-way tie with Hannes Puman of Sweden for 35th, Ben Hanna 38th, Palmer Larsen 42nd, Brian Antheunisse 43rd, Brendan Mitchell and Charlie Schreiber 49th, Ryan Copeland and Andrew Lamb 53rd, Nicholas Picarella 55th, Tristan Chen 57th, and Joel Zerr 59th.

In Rock and Ice’s hangboard competition between semifinals and finals, Kestrel Pikiewict, of Louisville, Colorado topped the leader board for hang time on the two-finger pocket with a time of 1 minute 46 seconds She also won last year. For the quarter-inch edge, Jake Kibbee, from Parker, Colorado, took first with a hang time of 51.73 seconds. Pikiewict and Kibbee each earned a free year-long subscription to Rock and Ice.

With five of seven IFSC Bouldering World Cups in the books, Coxsey, who has claimed three victories so far, leads the overall bouldering world cup rankings with 435 points, ahead of Janja Garnbrete of Slovenia with 370 points and Nonaka with 297 points. For men, Watabe holds a slight lead in the overall rankings with 332 points, ahead of Chon with 326 points and Rubtsov with 307 points.

The next and penultimate IFSC Bouldering World Cup will take place in Navi Mumbai, India on June 24 and 25. Check back for live streaming of the events.

 

Results – Finals

Women                                                        Men

1. Shauna Coxsey (GBR), 3t4 4b5                    1. Jongwon Chon (KOR), 4t9 4b8

2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), 3t6 4b6                       2. Meichi Narasaki (JPN), 3t6 3b5

3. Miho Nonaka (JPN), 3t7 4b7                         3. Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN), 3t11 4b7

4. Alex Puccio (USA), 3t10 4b10                       4. Alexey Rubtsov (RUS), 2t5 3b8

5. Katja Kadic (SLO), 1t3 2b4                            5. Kokoro Fujii (JPN), 2t6 4b10

6. Petra Klingler (SUI), 0t 1b2                            6. Keita Watabe (JPN), 1t3 1b3

Click here for complete results.

 

Women’s podium, from left: Akiyo Noguchi (second place), Shauna Coxsey (first place), Miho Nonaka (third place). Photo: <a target=Tim Foote.” title=”Women’s podium, from left: Akiyo Noguchi (second place), Shauna Coxsey (first place), Miho Nonaka (third place). Photo: Tim Foote.” style=”float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;”>Men’s podium, from left: Meichi Narasaki (second place), Jongwon Chon (first place), Yoshiyuki Ogata (third place). Photo: <a target=Tim Foote. ” title=”Men’s podium, from left: Meichi Narasaki (second place), Jongwon Chon (first place), Yoshiyuki Ogata (third place). Photo: Tim Foote. ” style=”float: right; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px;”>

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Watch the highlights from finals:

Leave a Reply

Notify of
avatar
wpDiscuz

Banff Mountain Book Competition Announces 2017 Category Winners

Here are the eight category winners, and a special mention given to Tommy Caldwell’s book.

read more

Puerto Rico: Climbing Our Way Out of Disaster

A small, self-organized brigade of climbers is making a difference.

read more

Job Opening: Online Editor - Rock and Ice Magazine

Full-time position based in Carbondale, Colorado.

read more